Day 6 - No shower.Swam in the Nile.

We left our bush camp quite late and headed off to a site called Deffufa, I had no idea what this site was, but I suspected it was ancient Kerma, the old Nubian capital, disguised under an Arabic name.we had to drive through a few small villages to find it and through a lot of palms.I'm surprised we found it at all.I was very grateful to Dave and Sarah for persevering with it, because as it turned out, I was right, it was ancient Kerma.

It was an optional, so not everyone went in.I went into the museum and then went into the site, which is almost flattened, apart from the fortress like structure in the centre.The guide book tells you this is a temple complex, but I took one look at it and decided it was a citadel.Knowing full well that war, not religion was at the heart of the Kerman civilisation.

I basically had the entire site to myself, I climbed all the way to the top of the structure, which is the largest mud brick structure in sub-Saharan Africa.From the top, I could see the outlines of the other buildings and sat at the top looking out on the attempting to figure out what they all were.

After getting lost again, we left Deffufa and headed to Wawa, which was ancient Wawat.We set up camp in the modern village.We had got there too early, because the roads in Sudan are excellent, not rubbish like Ethiopia.The village boatman offered us tea in his house and we accepted.We also managed to find someone with a freezer full of cold drinks, even though the village was deserted and nothing was open.I think we cleared out some guys private stash.

At sunset, some of us decided to go out with the boatman for a cruise on the Nile.We walked down to his small boat and jumped in.He took us to see where he had shot a huge Nile crocodile, "I shoot him there!" he said extending his finger.We looked at where he was pointing just in time to see another huge Nile crocodile slinking away into the undergrowth.

He took us over to the island and showed us the spot the Croc had been sitting in and then proceeded to dig up a croc nest.The Aussie's all ran for it, not wishing to have an angry croc after us.

We got back in the boat and he took us to a safe swimming spot.All of us except Yngvar, jumped in fully clothed.It was so nice to feel the water on my skin after over a week with no shower.We sat in the shallows watching the sun set over Amenhotep III's temple of Soleb."Happy Day 100 people" I said.We have now been on this tour for 100 days, can't believe its been that long since we left Cape Town.

After our swim we got back into the boat and headed back to our bush camp, just in time for dinner.