I spent most of today in the Souq in the Old Medina. It was a really nice day. I wanted to get a lamp and a rug, but both were really overpriced so I just ended up getting the rug, which was the cheaper of the two and the lesser of two evils.

I sat and chatted with a nice Libyan man outside a shop for about an hour. He didn't want anything from me, just that I send him a postcard from Australia. It was lovely to chat to him and it gave me a great insight as to how people in Libya really feel.

I went back to the hotel for the hottest part of the day and then went out again, looking for a Libyan soccer jacket, I found one at a really good price and then proceeded to walk all over Tripoli trying to find an atm, because no one accepts Visa. I really wish people, like my tour leader had been honest with me about things like this. All atms taking foreign cards were out of commission, so I had to go back to the hotel and change money.Annoying.

I have found Libya a very interesting country, and as my first Bad Land I would like to give a general overview of what it is like here, through the eyes of the two people I spent the most time with.

Tarek. (My tour leader)

·The Colonel is great, everyone is happy in Libya.

·Told me everyone gets a share in the countries oil profits.

·I ask him why you need a tour to go to Libya. He won't tell me, he says, "This is just the way it is". When I ask if it is for safety reasons, he says, "No, Libya is a very safe country." Hmmm

·Tells me there is no dress code in Libya, when obviously there is. Tells me Visa is widely accepted, when obviously it isn't. Tries to make out that Libya is more ahead of other North African countries, when really it isn't. Tells us the water is ok to drink, but that he would "prefer" us to drink bottled water. All of these lies could have been a real issue for me.

·Trash talks the Egyptians at any given opportunity. Is obviously jealous of their share of the tourist market.

·No enthusiasm for the job at all, arrogant, obviously thinks Libya doesn't need tourism.

Salah (The man on the street)

·Hates the Colonel, thinks many Libyan's are brainwashed into liking the government. Remembers when Libya was under Italian rule, knows things were better then.

·Tells me, the everyday Libyan sees no share in the countries oil wealth, tells me I have been lied to.

·Is obviously afraid about talking to me about the government and saying things are not a rosy as they appear. Talks in whispers, obviously free speech is not allowed here.

·Tells me the reason tourism is monitored is because the government is afraid of the effect western women, will have on Libyan women. Tells me there is no trust for westerners.

·Likes the Egyptians, tells me they are very nice people and it is unfortunate that their country is very poor. Shows compassion.

·Is widely travelled, has travelled all over Europe and loves westerners. Seems very curious about Australia.

·Is passionate about his country and about the experience foreigners have in his country.

Getting the two different views on the countries state of affairs by these two people from very different walks of life was fantastic. While I don't judge either of them, I know who I would have preferred as my tour leader.

The people in the country are curious about foreigners, I have never felt unsafe or threatened. There is no bargaining here, prices are usually marked, and no one comes up to you in the street and tries to scam you. If someone talks to you, they generally want to get to know you. If someone asks, How are you? there is no agenda, it is a genuine question and it has been wonderful to be able to just trust people again.

I met a nice young lad in the marketplace, about the same age as my Ben and he helped me find something I was looking for. Didn't want any money or expect anything else from me. He said to me "If I can be of any further help, please come and find me." I actually took him up on this offer and still he did not want anything from me. Crossing the street here looks harder than it does in Cairo, the difference here is, people slow down and wave you across. You can just walk out into the middle of the crazy Tripoli traffic knowing everyone will stop for you.

I love the way everyone speaks Arabic with an Italian accent. Everyone is very fashion conscious and the big brands are everywhere, as well as lots of tacky knock offs. Tripoli is very clean, cleaner than any African city I have ever been to. All the buildings are white and have not been allowed to slip into a filthy grey colour from the pollution, or lack thereof in Tripoli's case.

I only have two criticisms the first, is they need to take much better care of their ancient sites. At the moment they are arrogant and insist they don't need tourism. As I pointed out to one of the guides, who seemed to be of the same opinion as me, the oil won't last forever, then you guys will be up s*** creek without a paddle. The second is that they need to do away with the idea of a compulsory guide, especially when the locals, who don't need a guide, do more damage than the tourists. Having a guide at most of the sights has almost ruined it for me, I have just felt annoyed at being chaperoned and at having to sit there listening to things I already know or just complete rubbish because the guide has no idea what he is talking about. Like the one who tried to tell us that, Medusa had a mirrored shield. Athena gave the mirrored shield to Perseus, so he could kill her, why would Medusa allow Perseus to take the object that ultimately led to her demise. No idea.

Suffice it to say, it has been very interesting being in a country, that is under the rule of a military dictatorship. Anyway, enough of that, tomorrow I fly home to Cairo, back on familiar soil and a culture I know all too well.