We left Alleppo the following morning after I had my haircut and Peter went in search if antibiotics again, this time for a skin infection. Two items were only GBP1.50! someone is making a lot of money on medicines in our country.

We were getting low on diesel and although finding our way out of the city was easier than getting in we couldn't find diesel as not every garage sells it. We called at a small repair shop and the man could speak slight English but as there were lots of one way streets again he had to get in the truck with us again with me on the centre console! We found the garage and put in 101 ltrs which cost £7.07!!! it would have cost about £100 at home. We thanked the man profusely took him back to work and got on our way.

The road to Hama was an easy drive with the road conditions quite good and sign posted all the way although there are wagons and coaches going at horrendous speeds just blasting on their horns to tell you they are pushing you out of the way so they can pass! We called at the Dead Cities which are villages deserted hundreds of years ago but left completely intact surrounded by bare dusty lanscape. The camper is causing a bit of a spectacle as obviously as there is no camping in Syria people have never seen anything like it. We wondered how many accidents we have caused as people suddenly lose concentration and stare at us or pull alongside at traffic lights staring and waving.

Hama is a much smaller place than Alleppo and one of Syrias more attractive towns. It has a rancid river running through the centre its banks lined with trees and gardens and ancient groaning water wheels that are still turning but now serving no purpose in moving the fetid water around. We parked and went in search of our hotel, this time a typical mid-range place about £15 per night. We found it and went looking at with with trepidation as from the street it looked very grim but it was, basic, clean and with very friendly staff who welcomed us with a cup of tea.

As with all Muslim towns we have visted the whole place comes alive at dusk as people take to the streets after the call to prayer from the mosques. The women, some dressed in black from head to foot with their faces completely covered and others with only scarves and long coats flock to the souq with their small children who are dressed in modern western clothing. Some of the younger women seem to take pride in presenting their baby to you so that you can admire it. We ate at a restaurant recommend by the Lonely Planet Guide Book which was excellent 3 courses, 2 beers and 2 wines for £10, Syria is amazingly cheap.

Next day after a typical Syrian breakfast of olives, cheese, hummus and bread we set off to Krac Des Chavaliers (castle). Renowned author and travel writer Paul Theroux described this castle as the epitome of the dream castle of childhood fantasies of jousts, armour and pennants. The castle was remarkably well preserved and cannot have looked much different 800 years ago. The first fortress was built in 1031 to hold a garrison of 2000 and all the rooms, kitchens, dinning rooms and round table were still evident. We took a local guide and spent an enjoyable morning exploring the castle.

Later in the afternoon we sat in the local park making our notes for this blog and as usual the whole town was out with their familities enjoying the Friday evening. Several children came up to us to look at our writing ( we write left to right, Arabs write right to left) and 3 boys aged about 14 asked if they could sit with us, only one of them could speak a little bit of English. A guy in full Arab dress came talking and said he was from Iraq and was in Syria to escape from the bombing. He said he would be very pleased if we would come and eat dinner with him and his family but we declined saying we had already eaten. This wasn't the case but were were not really prepared to be guests at dinner although will be next time we are invited which is quite likely.