If there is something I am truly proud of so far on this trip it is making it from Manaus, Brazil to El Calafate, Argentina in 2 days. Shanil would even applaud how efficiently we navigated our way from the middle of the Amazonian jungle to southern Argentina in less than 48 hours. It took 3 flights and 1 long bus ride to trade flooded forests for glaciers, but we did it without a hiccup. Granted, if there would have been the slightest deviation or delay in the scheduled travel time of any of our modes of transport our plan would have been spoiled- but, seeing as that didn`t happen, I feel we have the need (and the right) to boast a little.

We took off from the aiport in Manaus shortly after 12:00 am on the 19th of February. The overnight flight, which had a stopover in Sao Paulo, was the only part that threatened to disrupt our carefully laid out plan. Shortly before we were supposed to touch down, the captain informed us that the plane was not going to be able to land in Sao Paulo due to weather and would be landing in the airport of a nearby city instead. That was enough to give us a scare and to cause Morgan to visibly panic at the possibility of not making our connection. However, as we contemplated our options, the plane landed in Sao Paulo after all... which was a fantastic surprise but nonetheless puzzling. Why inform your passengers that you won`t be landing at the intended destination unless it is nearly 100% that you won`t be? At any rate, it was strange. We lounged in the airport for a few hours, drapping ourselves uncomfortably over the bucket seats trying to catchs a few ZZZs before boarding our second flight to Foz de Iguazu.

The second flight was pleasantly quick and painless. Uneventful was exactly what we wanted at this point- no need for surprises or unforseeable wrinkles that South America likes to throw in your travel plans every once and awhile as you meander your way across her. At about 9:00 am we got off the plane in Iguazu, and caught the first bus we could from the airport heading for the city center. We ended up getting off at the side of the road and hitching a ride to the border crossing into Argentina. A few short hours later, after happily comsuming our first good beer in nearly a month (oh how we missed you Quilmes), we were on a bus headed for Buenos Aires. By this point we were understandably exhausted, so the semi-camas (half beds) and an 18 hour bus ride didn`t sound too bad. In fact, after being served a roast beef dinner complete with wine and champagne we passed out until we were on the outskirts of Buenos Aires. We truly get the short end of the stick in North America when it comes to buses- Greyhound is ripping us all off! For less than the price it takes to travel from Kelowna to Vancouver, we traveled the 18 hours from Puerto Iguazu to Buenos Aires in seats 10 times more comfortable- plus it included 2 meals and unlimited beverages. Ludicrous I tell you! But, I suppose supply meets demand, and since everyone has vehicles in Canada there is not enough demand for greyhound to improve their services or to encourage other companies to enter the market. What a shame.

Anyways, back to our tale of efficiency. We luckily realized that Buenos Aires has two airports- had we not, we would have headed for Ezeiza (where we landed) and ended up on the far side of town from where we needed to be. So, we took a local bus to the much closer domestic airport where we checked our baggage with hours to spare. At 5:00 pm that evening, we landed in the tiny deserted El Calafate airport. We had successfully made our way from the Amazonian jungle to the glaciers of Patagonia!

The airport itself is quite a ways out of town for some odd reason. So, after gathering up our packs (stopping to marvel at the fact that they had successfully made it all that way and through all those connections), we took a shuttle bus into town. Morgan made the comment as we entered town that everything looks eerily new. It really was a strange site, as everything seemed to be in construction or in the process of being renovated. I guess when a town itself or something nearby becomes a popular tourist destination the town naturally grows around it as a result. El Calafate is no different, as the residents and businesses of the area compete for the foreign dollars drawn in by the surrounding natural wonders. The town noticeably has done alot of its growing recently, as the main road on the perimeter of town where many building is taking place line what used to be the runway to the old airport. The control tower is still there too! haha

After many stops we finally got dropped off where we planned to spend the night. We had read in the Lonely Planet that there were plenty of places to camp- which we were intent on doing as Brazil had left us with no other option but to save wherever we could. We found a campsite that was part of a Hansel and Gretel-like hostel, and while we set up our tent met a couple from Slovakia. They had just visited glacier Perito Moreno which we intended to see the next day and hiked Torres del Paine- which we were heading to next. They kindly shared valuable information and travel stories with us, and warmed our hearts all the more by sharing the last few drops of their cheap red wine. Once settled, we scrambled to book transportation to the National Park to see the glacier the next day, and bought food supplies for dinner. Content over the accomplishment of having come so far, we filled our bellies with a gourmet meal of weiners and chicken noodle soup. O, and don`t forget the cheap bottle of Argentinean wine! We gladly passed out shortly after.

The following day we were up early to catch the bus. We arrived at the National Park at around 9:30. They informed us that there was room left on a boat that passes right in front of the glacier for a decent price. We decided it was good idea and something we wanted to do. A glacier is quite something in itself, but all the more impressive when you are right up close to it and able to hear it groan and creak. Its a humbling experience being next to a huge mass of slowly advancing ancient ice, that has helped carve the mountains that surround it. No words could do it justice, so I will let the pictures fill in the details.

After the boat ride we were taken to the lookout point where we were given another vantage point from which to see the glacier. From there you can better see how far back it goes. Further down, there is another platform right up close to the front of the glacier, with a board showing how the glacier has been advancing. We were lucky enough to be there when a large chunk of the glacier broke off and fell into the water in front of all the spectators. It was so loud it sounded like the entire glacier was falling apart. Glacier Perito Moreno is most definitely one of the most spectacular things I have ever seen.

We got back into town and were lucky enought to get two of the last tickets on the bus to Torres del Paine that afternoon at 4:30. That meant that we have to hurry back to the campsite, pack up, pay, and then head into town to buy a few supplies for our hike through Torres del Paine. Unfortunately our haste resulted in a few casualties; Morgan had washed a few items of clothing that morning and put them out to try along with our travel towels- so, much to her disappointment we forgot them. I suppose it was bound to happen at some point, but it is always s***ty to lose things.

The bus trip to Torres del Paine was bizzare. In the beginning Morgan was nostalgic, as the endless expanse of flat terrain reminded her of home. We were a bit confused at first by the partitioned fields seperated by fences because it appeared that there was nothing in the fields to keep in or out. Then I noticed that many of the mounds were in fact not thistly bushes, but sheep! There were thousands of them! Our question of how people made a living out there was answered. Anyways, the bus continued down a dirt road for about an hour, dodging and honking at the llamas on the road...weird. We passed through what looked likea ghost town, which later proved to be a a barely surviving mining town. Everything bore the stains of coal. 4 hours later we finally reached the border crossing. In the most inefficient process ever, we had to take all our bags out from under the bus, get our passports stamped and pass through customs, where they didn`t so much as even give a glimpse at the inside of our bags. Stupid formalities. With that done and over with, we arrived in Puerto Natales, Chile, ready to arange our trek into Torres del Paine.