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This was a very early morning, as we wanted to see the Taj Mahal at sunrise. We hauled ourselves out of bed for our 515am pick up. It was a quick 10 minute ride to the point where no cars were allowed past. We learned from Anu that to preserve the Taj they have eliminated any motor vehicles within 1k and they have removed all manufacturing facilities that are not using certain non-polluting processes within 70k of the monument. We were dropped off and walked to the front of the complex.
As it is off season and early in the morning, there were NO lines. Anu commented this is excellent as many times one would have to wait a long period of time to get in. We walked in and soon were walking through to the entrance in front of the Taj. For those that don't know the very famous story, it was built by Shah Jahan for his wife Mumtaz to be buried. She was the love of his life (he had two other wives) and had requested of him to honor her with something memorable. And that he did.
It took 22 years and 20,000 workers to build her final burial place and the intricacy is truly amazing. The symmetry and symbolism is spectacular and there are reasons for every part of the design. To walk through the gardens, through the gate and see the mausoleum that we have all seen so many pictures of....was one of the highlights of my travels in my life.
One thing that was surprising was the inside of the mausoleum was very small and dark. Inside, there are two marble caskets containing Shah Jahan and Mumtaz, and his casket is the only non-symmetrical part of the entire complex. This is due to his decision to be buried next to her after the whole thing was built...so his casket is not aligned with the rest of the design.
We spent two hours walking around and marveling at the "paradise on earth" (Shah Jahan's goal) before stepping back out into reality and back to the hotel for breakfast. After a quick breakfast and pack job, we were back in the car with Anu to make a couple more stops before heading to Jaipur.
The first stop was to a marble carving factory and shop. There are 110 families that carry on the carvings from the Taj, which had a specific way of inlaying the precious stones on the entire monument. It was quite fascinating and of course we had to bring some back as souvenirs. After some time perusing the many rooms and some negotiating, we all are coming home with more than we should be, but glad to have something for the memory.
Our next stop was about 45 minutes outside of Agra, Fatehpur Sikri, one of the capitals of the Moghuls. It was built by the 3rd Moghul, Akbar (Shah Jahan's grandfather) around 1569. Basically, Akbar got bored in Agra Fort and decided to build another palace farther out. So, he built this one, then died, so they all went back to Agra. Interestingly, he was quite progressive and married three wies. One Hindu, one Muslim, one Christian. Each had wing decorated to their taste, and all three were quite different. As with the Agra Fort, this one was massive but not as ornate. Nice to see they downplayed the wealth! (ok it was still quite incredible).
After our tour, we said goodbye to Anu (like Poona by the side of the road), where she was going to take public transport back to Agra. We had seen what that looked like and all felt terrible, but it was too far to go back. So, we waved goodbye and headed to Jaipur.
We were scheduled for lunch on the 4 hour drive, but none of us were hungry. I had told Anu that we could really just do snacks from our bags and skip lunch, but she advised that Rennu our driver hadn't eaten and would probably appreciate the stop. So, that made the decision...we would stop! We passed by farms, massive flocks of sheep in the roads and small villages. Rennu stopped a couple of time to ask for directions to our lunch location. He was directed down a dirt road, through a very small village where we arrived at an oasis in the middle of nowhere.
We went inside a beautiful small hotel, Chandra Mahal Haveli, where we were welcomed with the now expected prayer hands and namaste. We seemed to be the only guests, which we are told is normal for this time of year...off-season. High season is October-March and all hotels/restaurants are then full. We were seated in the dining room and then the food started to arrive. And arrive. And arrive. We had a feast and it was all amazing. Paige's stomach was still in repair, so she kept to rice, lentils and bread. Katelyn, Ashley and I went for the more robust stuff and the entire group had an excellent lunch. Before we left I asked for a quick look at the rooms, which were beautifully appointed. Who knew we would find this great place in the middle of the a village 2k off the main road.
We arrived Jaipur to camels, elephants and of course the requisite cows and dogs. Our hotel is another ITC (SPG brand) and looked to be the most opulent. We checked in and it was in fact quite nice. I had been advised (via email) that I had been upgraded to a suite with a butler. So, expectations were high. When we got to the rooms, they were in fact nice, but the smallest of all we have stayed in. No sign of a butler, but any time I called down to the desk within 1 minute someone was knocking at the door...so maybe that was it. Oh well, the rooms are free and still nice, so can't complain.
Paige was wanting pasta, while the rest of us were not caring about dinner. Lunch had been so huge, I wasn't hungry. We got free drink coupons for the bar from 6-8 (happy hour), so we hit that where I relaxed with a glass of Indian red wine (wasn't bad), while the girls went to the cafe for pizza and pasta. It was an early night...for a full day of touring Jaipur tomorrow.
- comments
maria mcclung spectacular...... thanks for sharing....a rainy day in sugarland, glad we don't have to water for a while.. by now you must be planning your return... how many hours? you have enormous energy , I don't think I would have had the stamina for all this.... at least not now.. so take care and have an easy flight back with no surprises... ha.... maria