Italy and the Aeolian Islands (12th June to 1st July 2011)

Hanna and Richard joined us for a holiday. They flew out to Lamezia Terme airport and met us on Sunday evening at Stella del Sud marina at Vibo Valentia. Richard hired a car from the airport for 3 days and early the next morning we set out to drive to Naples and the beginning of their Italian volcano tour. The first and most easily accessible volcano was Vesuvius. We drove most of the way up and walked a relatively short distance to the crater. Vesuvius is an active volcano but it is not up to much at the moment with just a few fumaroles emitting the odd plume of smoke, however the view across the bay of Naples when the cloud finally lifted was spectacular. Having thoroughly inspected the volcano we drove to Naples in search of a hotel for the night. It was very disappointing, we had expected a beautiful city but instead it was rundown and covered in graffiti. The traffic was terrible and the standard of driving was wild to say the least, so we left and drove to Sorrento instead. In complete contrast Sorrento perched on top of high cliffs is very beautiful. Next morning we went to see the victim of the most famous eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD, when it buried Ancient Pompeii and all its inhabitants under a thick layer of ash. Pompeii was a wealthy and important city in Roman times with many fine houses and buildings including an amphitheatre for gladiatorial events, a large basilica and two theatres. Among the most interesting if rather gruesome exhibits are plaster casts of several bodies, made from impressions found in the ash when the city was excavated.
We returned to Vibo Valentia and on Wednesday Hanna's brother Mohamed joined us. On Thursday morning we set sail for the Aeolian Islands, a world heritage site renowned for their volcanic and geological interest. On route we met a large pod of at least a dozen long finned pilot whales which were very interested in us. They came right up to the boat, rode at the bow and dived beneath it. We were treated to a wonderful display of whale behaviour, logging (lounging around on the surface), tail slapping, breaching and spy hopping (floating vertically and poking the head out of the water). Our guests were very lucky, this was the best whale encounter of the whole 4 year trip and they got a great opportunity to take lots of photos and video.
First stop was Stromboli, another active volcano but in this case active means spitting fire at regular intervals. We took the boat to the west side of the island after dark. From here we could see the eruptions spewing red hot lava rocks, which rolled down the mountainside and hissed as they fell into the sea. The volcano is 924 metres high and the best view of the action is of course from the top. We joined a guided tour and hiked for 3 hours to the summit. The trail leading up to the 400 metre mark was relatively easy. Above this, where the vegetation ends, it is required by law that you have a guide and it would be foolish not to. Our guide Franko, who bore an uncanny resemblance to Billy Connelly, led us up the steep path that zigzagged through ash and rubble. I found it very hard going and had to be dragged up the last 100 metres by William and Richard using a stick. The others being much fitter had little trouble. But it was worth the agony, the view was fantastic, we could see all the way to the mainland and the sunset was beautiful. Then came the main event and Stromboli didn't disappoint us. It belched out smoke and fire as we gazed down in awe into its gaping crater. It was paradise for the geologists Hanna and Richard. The decent in the dark was much quicker, far less strenuous but very scary. Wearing hard hats head torches and dust masks we came down through the ash fields in single file. We were not allowed to stop and the pace was almost running. Luckily we couldn't see the steep drop to our right as the narrow path clung to the mountainside.
After the excitement (and exhaustion in my case) of Stromboli we sailed to Panarea. This small island frequented by the rich and famous was reputedly the most sophisticated and chic. Hanna, Richard and Mohamed went ashore to take a look. The town of San Pietro was pretty and like the towns on Stromboli the only vehicles able to negotiate the narrow winding streets were golf carts, scooters or small three wheelers.
Next day it was back to the volcano trail and the island of Vulcano where we anchored in the shadow of the grand crater. The smell of sulphur was all pervading and we snorkelled above bubbling fumaroles. Richard and Hanna tried out the nearby volcanic mud baths, geothermally heated to 34 degrees centigrade and supposedly of great benefit to health. We walked to the top of the volcano, at 391 metres it was a stroll in the park after Stromboli but equally fascinating. On one side of the vast crater numerous fumaroles emitted streams of steam which rolled down into it like a blanket of cloud. Big yellow sulphur crystals lined these vents. Being careful to remain downwind of them, in order to avoid breathing the concoction of noxious gasses they put out, we circumnavigated the rim. On the way down we witnessed yet another beautiful sunset. We saw the rest of the island by hiring quad bikes. They were great fun.
We sailed to Sicily with a view to leaving the boat for a few days in a marina on the north east coast and driving to Etna but the marinas were horrendously expensive at 135 Euros per night so we headed back to the islands. Lipari the largest was the best place to restock the boat and we completed the tour by visiting Salina and Filicudi. The wind increased and the sea became bouncy. It was too rough to take the dinghy into the blue grotto on Filicudi but we found a lovely anchorage in the lee of the island where the water was clear and snorkelling was good. We returned to the mainland on 29th June, breaking the journey at Panarea and Stromboli. This time on Panarea we found a very pretty but popular anchorage away from the town, where we snorkelled and in the evening we all went ashore and walked into town. The final night in these lovely islands was spent at anchor in Stromboli and as we looked up at the towering black shape of the volcano we saw a string of tiny twinkling lights high on the mountainside, people making their way down from the crater. We all felt a great sense of satisfaction; we had been there and gazed into the fiery heart of the earth.
After all the rolly anchorages we decided to give Richard and Hanna a couple of nights of luxury before they flew home, so we came into the marina at Tropea. Tropea is one of the most beautiful towns in southern Italy, perched high above towering cliffs. Walking through the narrow streets of the old town provided a welcome escape from the heat of the day, their tall buildings provided much needed shade from the blazing sun. The whole place is a labyrinth with restaurants and shops lining the streets or tucked away down tiny alleyways. In the evening we had a pizza at one such establishment and enjoyed the lively atmosphere of this very stereotypically Italian town.