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After we left Croydon, The Savannah Way improved greatly and it was 2 lanes wide all the way to Normanton.33km west of Normanton is Camp 119 - the most northern camp that explorers Burke and Wills recorded on their ill fated exploration trek from Melbourne to The Gulf in 1861. David had finished Peter Fitzsimons’ book “Burke and Wills” and was fairly knowledgeable on the subject. It was a great learning experience and I just can’t believe their optimism, and often, foolhardiness. That night we camped 5km further west on the banks of The Flinders River. Bird life was magnificent and we did see a rather large croc floating along the other side of the river near sunset. The sky was spectacular and I was on “croc watch” while we sat around the camp fire. Thankfully we were very safe and had no visitors.
Normanton was a little disappointing. I was expecting a larger town and was planning to spend a couple of nights here but that quickly changed to a “drive by”. We did stay 1 night at Karumba - 75 km north, right on The Gulf, which was great. Here we joined a sunset cruise with “Croc and Crab Tours”. $80 each but it was two very enjoyable hours of a boat ride to a sandbar Island, prawns, nibbles, drinks and a glorious sunset. No sandflies either which I very grateful for. Back through Normanton at 80kph and on the Burke Development Road 179km south to our free camp at Bang Bang Rest Area. Now just 84km to Burke and Wills Roadhouse to refuel (170.9 per litre - most expensive yet) then 233km to Julia Creek via Wills Development Road. Again mainly just 1 vehicle wide but hardly any traffic. I think in that 233km we met only 6. Vehicles.
We stayed two nights at the caravan park in Julia Creek at $20 per night unpowered. There is a free camp in town but we had heard that the local council had spent some money on the park and we thought we should support them. Good choice! They have four seperate little round sheds that house two artesian baths in each. These are free to reserve for 1 hour and for $20 you get the best cheese platter to enjoy while having a soak and enjoying the view. Take your own bottle of wine, of course.
136 km further west from Julia Creek on the Overlander Way is Cloncurry. Only 80km out from Julia Creek disaster struck. We heard a flapping sound but couldn’t see where it was coming from. It was a very windy day and we were getting hit side on from the gusts. Thinking it was only the wind, we drove on then BANG - sounded like a tyre blew. While inspecting the tyres, the cover to the rooftop air conditioner blew off and nearly got David. In missing him, thank goodness, it did wipe out the aerial. We limped along until we found somewhere flat to park to change the tyre. The cover of the air conditioner was beyond repair. We had to call roadside assistance to change the wheel and had a wait - nearly 5 hours - plenty of time to read, have a cuppa, read, make lunch, read .......
After overnighting in Cloncurry, we took the chance to push on to Mount Isa - only 122km further on - and began researching to replace the tyre that blew plus the others. As it was a Saturday, the tyres could only be ordered on Monday and they had to come from Townsville. Mount Isa is home for a few days.
We took advantage of the time in Isa and visited Hard Times Mine. A very authentic tour which takes you underground, dresses you in orange coveralls, hard hat and miners light and explains the life of a miner - even getting on the end of a hydraulic drill. Luke, our guide, is a current day miner and very passionate about his industry. Mount Isa Mines has the deepest copper mine - 1950 metres (nearly two kilometres!) and 1,000 km of tunnels underground. Just amazing.
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