The day started well with our train on time,comfortable reclining seats and a food service on board - water, newspaper, cuppa chai and biccies, and breakfast! When we arrived into Amritsar station, an old man greeted us and told us he could take us to the old town and show us a hotel option - H e had a good vibe so we went for it and were rewarded with top tips on things to see, journey times, and a nice hotel 5mins from the golden temple - what a lovely man! Our arrival into Amritsar was a wet one - they had had 3 days of rain and the streets had turned in to rivers! It would have been a headline news item in the UK, but the Indians just donned their flip flops and waded through. We went for a paddle through the old bazaars and bought a couple of shawls - the city has a large textiles industry. Just about every other shop sells shawls, so plenty of choice. We ordered food back at the hotel - just like ordering a takeaway at home, and you get it delivered to your room! That evening there was a big, loud party across the road - we had to put our iPods on to drown out the bhangra music, as we were getting up at half 5 to visit the golden temple. The following morning, a kind Sikh man showed us the way to drop off our shoes and cover our heads, and then off we went inside. The whole place had a peaceful and spiritual feel, and the lights were dimly lit. So many colourful saris and men in turbans of all colours, against the white quadrant walls. We walked around and then down the main path to the golden temple. Inside were people playing instruments, and men sweeping up the offerings of money and flowers. An amazing place. We went back and had a nap and breakfast, before going off to explore some other temples and parks. We visited the silver Hindu temple, remarkably similar to the Sikh golden temple, ram bagh park where we saw a brightly coloured woodpecker, and mata mandir (mother temple). Mata temple can only be described as a crazy mirrored fun house. All walls and ceilings were covered in colour mirror, and one path led you through the whole temple, going through a lion's belly, a cave, and the roof - absolutely mad! Hugo also got asked if he was indian - his tan is coming along already! In the evening we went to a dhaba (restaurant), famous in Amritsar for its Punjabi food. We had a thali whilst the restaurant looked on. On our return to our hotel, we came across a brass band - turns out it was a wedding celebration. Before you know it, we are mobbed by people asking us to dance and 'one snap please' requests. We obliged and got down low with the kids. We said our goodbyes and made a quick exit back in to our hotel, almost got through the door before the father of the bride chased us down the corridor and asked us to come to his house to meet his daughter and groom. After being whisked away down dark alleys, we arrived at the party and politely sat down next to the bride and groom. Faced by drunken wedding guests and a film crew worthy of a Bollywood block buster, we posed for photos and drank cola. Then we were led back out the street to see the fireworks of another wedding across the road. Finally we got to bed, but the band were still playing at 6am! In the morning, after finding out that our train was delayed 4 hours, we went to visit the golden temple again with the hotel manager, our friend Shubham (a year older than us), and afterwards he kindly bought us breakfast. We took a cycle rickshaw to the bus station and caught the bus to pathankot, as the train was further delayed. There was no ac on the bus, and it felt like the hottest day yet. The bus kept making stops along the road side where kids/men would hop on board and sell coconut, thali in buckets, nuts and cut-up cucumber. One guy was selling these metal things you screw in to citrus fruits to release the juice - only 20p so we bought one and will buy some guavas soon to try it out! After the three hour journey we changed on to a toy train for 4.5hrs - 25p a ticket! It was a proper train with the chug chug sound, and the scenery was amazing - over gorges, forests and valleys. A guy on the train started talking to us, and asked if we had any sterling - i had a tenner and a pound coin in my bag so showed him, and it got passed round the rest of the carriage. Turns out he is in to his currency - he took out a us dollar, Italian note, and libyan note, so i gave him the pound and in return he bought us a drink and crisps. We watched the sun set over the lake, and then travelled in darkness by the moon - and saw the silhouettes of two owls we think. At the last stop, we got a taxi to our hotel in kangra. We splashed out a whole 19 quid for a fancier hotel, complete with waiters in bow ties. And oh my goodness - they had meat, cereal and orange juice on the menu! Day made! We had some yummy curry for tea and a milkshake.