9 Aug 2008

Day 161

South Luangwa NP (Croc Valley Campsite)

SARAH: This is our second best campsite of the trip after the Libyan desert camp. It's so wonderful to be back in wild African bush again and we were woken with a few disturbances from the hyena and hippo. There's no better place to do tedious washing than sitting in the baking sun on the Luangwa river game spotting whilst washing clothes. It really doesn't get much better than this! I spent the afternoon swimming in their hippo friendly pool, which is more pond shaped so the hippos that fall in can get out, and relaxing in hammocks on the riverbank watching the Egoli of Africa. We enjoyed watching animal stories unfold as crocs moved about, baby ellies swam and giraffe came down to drink. We were so excited to go on our night drive with the camp from 4-8pm but it turned out to be quite disappointing. In the afternoon we finally saw our tree climbing lions with cubs playing in and around the tree. We then stopped by the river for an amazing red sunset and drinks but we didn't see much after dark on the actual night drive. I had high expectations and hoped to see a leopard but the animals that we did see where all small - Janet, Sivet cat, honey badger, bandit mongoose and night jar…and the hyena sighting wasn't great. We also saw lots of hippo crazing and only once out the park did we see elly right in our camp! We returned to camp feeling deflated but eager to make tomorrows day in the parkmake up for it. We had boerie rolls for dinner and collapsed into bed.

10 Aug 2008

Day 162

South Luangwa NP (Croc Valley Campsite)

BRUCE: There was no holding back this morning as we were up at 5 and into the park at 6am sharp with a lekker flask of hot water for tea and coffee at the waterholes! This park is absolutely spectacular, all set along the Luangwa River. The scenery is stunning with so many different environments from groves of massive ebony trees to open grass plans and everything in between. We consciously took it easy in the park today as we have tended to get carried away and do massive mileages in parks. We saw loads of animals today, but the highlight was watching a pride of lion hunting zebra. They failed to kill but it was awesome to watch. We have seen so many lion on this trip and every time all they do is sleep so it was really cool to see them in action!

We also had a great hyena sighting (they are now my favourite animals in parks) and saw a flock of vultures on a dead baboon. One of my favourite parts of the park is around a massive old oxbow lake where you drive along the dry river bed through masses of plains game. In the rainy season this all floods again. We had hoped to see a leopard but will have to wait until tomorrow. Apparently South Luangwa has one leopard for every 2.5sqkm!

When the night drive came back to camp we heard that the large pride that we had seen hunting zebra had just killed a large buffalo bull. It must have been awesome to see and we were gutted that we missed out. I had been abusing the loins about being lousy hunters after the botched zebra hunt but will have to apologise tomorrow!

11 Aug 2008

Day 163

South Luangwa NP (Croc Valley Campsite)

SARAH: There was a buzz in the camp about the lion kill and those who went on an early morning drive said that the hyenas and vultures were finishing it off. We couldn't resist not going back into the park today so were back in by 2:30pm but the sight of the lion kill was quiet by this stage. We did see some great lion cubs though but still no leopard showed itself to us. Where are these elusive leopards? We returned to camp in the dark and cooked a great curry on the fire next to the river and chatted to a Zim family in the bar way past our bedtime.

TEA WITH A LEOPARD

12 Aug 2008

Day 163

South Luangwa NP (Croc Valley Campsite)

BRUCE: We were back in the park at 6am this morning…..with our flask! Se managed to find the small pride of lion that we had seen yesterday and we had a cup of coffee while we watched them laze about. They had moved to the edge of a small plain and were clearly positioning themselves for a hunt later in the day. Moving off we had out first close call with an elephant that had been hiding behind a bush with her calf and was not so happy that we had passed so close! Heading back toward the river we found some awesome loops that we had not done yet and we were rewarded with another great hyena sighting. Although this guy must have been munching on some serious bones cause he had the worst constipation that I have ever seen! We then found our second lion pride and a lioness had tiny cubs that she was suckling when they were not playing the goat. By now it was 11am and we were both exhausted with the effort of game watching and decided to find a shady spot to park the Land Rover, put up the roof tent and have a nap! We found a great place on a plain under a lonely tree and had an awesome nap before having a sandwich and heading out for the afternoon drive.We had just started looking for our lions when we bumped into Rich, Se's mate from years ago, who is running at a tented camp here. Rich knew that we were coming and had gone all the way to Flatdogs camp to find us. He invited us back to his camp for tea and a catch up so we turned around and followed him back up the river. Their camp is called Mchenja and is set right on the river in a grove of massive ebony trees. There are only 5 tents so a maximum of ten guests. When we arrived there were 10 safari chairs lined up on the lawn along the river bank with a table that had tea, coffee, juice and cake! Tea was served in nice china mugs and the cake on a plate with a silver cake fork. We had just sat down with ours and were chatting to the other guests when Rich pipes up 'There's the Leopard!.' He was on the opposite bank and it was a stunning sighting in the afternoon light. Especially while taking tea and cake in style. Although I have to confess I left the tea and cake and dashed for the binoculars that were back in the Landy.

After tea Rich and Susie (his Fiancé) invited us back to spend the night with them tomorrow. They have a vacancy so we get to stay in one of their tents! It was a generous offer that we just could not turn down so we'll be back in time for brunch at 11am tomorrow!

We had a quiet game drive back and it had been an absolutely fantastic day in this awesome spot. Back in the park tomorrow!!

BASKING IN LUXURY AT MCHENJA CAMP

13 Aug 2008

Day 164

South Luangwa NP (Mchenja Camp S12 56.471 E31 54.299)

SARAH: As fate would have it the lady who collects the money at the park entrance wasn't there so we were asked to pay on our way out and were waved through. This park is so relaxed! We found some more lions and the pride with tiny cubs again on our way up to Mchenja Camp arriving just in time for brunch. We've definitely gone up in the world staying at Mchenja which is a top notch place. It's a magnificent camp right on the Luangwa river and Rich and Susie showed us to our tented room under a thatched roof with a stylish outside bathroom so you can shower with a view of the river, all so elegantly done with a bush feel to it. We felt a bit scruffy to be staying in such a posh place but met the other guests and had a great brunch with them. After a relaxing afternoon around our camp and snoozing in style we took tea at 3:30pm and this time had a coconut cake with granadilla icing, but without the leopard sighting.

The four of us managed to sneak off for a cheeky sundowners whilst the other guests were on a evening game drive. It was quite surreal catching up sitting in the bush next to the river with a stunning sunset and eating popcorn all whilst game viewing and having G&T's. It just doesn't get much better than this!! Before dinner I had to make to the most of the luxurious accommodation and had my first hot bubble bath of the trip. Dinner was another fantastic meal with 3 courses and lots of wine and everyone was talking about their awesome game drives. Luckily for us, the guests went to bed after dinner so we were left to sit around the camp fire enjoying the night sounds and stars whilst listening for the baboon alert calls to a leopard in the ebony grove! It's been the most awesome day and we went to bed listening to a choir of African bush sounds. This place is amazing!

14 Aug 2008

Day 166

South Luangwa NP (back at Croc Valley Camp)

BRUCE: We were up at 5.30 this morning and at 6 we joined the other guests for coffee, toast and oats around the fire. Mchenja is north of a river called the Lui that really separates where the day visitors drive from the wild 'north' of the park. We were excited to be up here and had a great day exploring. I won't bore youwith all the details of everything we saw but we had some pretty close calls with elephant today, as well as seeing loin etc etc. We were charged twice by very musty bulls and my nerves have had about as much elephant that they can take.

We had a midday nap under some trees to recover from the overdose of elephant before heading back to Mchenja to say cheers to Rich and Susie. The afternoon game drive was quiet by South Luangwa standards as we did not see any cats but we did have the most phenomenal giraffe sighting with a herd right in front of us on the road for ages.

We were really sad to drive out of the gate for the last time, this place is just so so awesome.

A SAD FAREWELL TO SOUTH LUANGWA

15 Aug 2008

Day 167

South Luangwa NP (Croc Valley Camp)

SARAH: Another camper had 'stolen' our spot next to the river so we camped further away from the river, but still had a lovely view. We were both sad not to be back in the park today but enjoyed watching the animals come to the river to drink whilst we did some around camp chores. We cleaned the exceptionally dirty and dusty cab and back of the landy, repacked a few things and did a quick check of email. In the afternoon we checked out Rich's recommended sundowners spot at a dry pan but there was more action happening around our camp so ended up back there for the sunset. There were about 5 herds of ellies around our campsite and we watch still more herds crossing the river. I love ellies but have had enough of their temperamental behaviour and combined with Larium induced anxiety…it's not a good combination. For our last dinner in South Luangwa we had toasted saams and pasta salad done on a mopane wood braai, ala Mchenja style. I guess all good things have to come to an end!

16 Aug 2008

Day 168

Mfuwe (South Luangwa) - Petauke (Zulu Kraal Campsite S14 17.743 E31 19.838)

342Km

BRUCE: I was up early this morning to make a nice sunrise camp fire breakfast for Se. We had a great breakfast with tea and coffee as we watched the sun rise over the Luangwa river. Sheesh it is hard to leave this place! We moped around for a bit but eventually we had to drag ourselves away and make the long drive back to down to Chipata (no famous for the Indian fellows running a dodgy safari company and asking Rich 'Hey men….y'all checked any lion?? - remind me to tell you a few stories that Rich relayed to us about these characters!)

We decided to get as much mileage under our belts as possible today and made it as far as Petuake and the Zulu Kraal camp. The place is a little run down but will do for tonight.