DAY 12 - JODHPUR

We decided to spend our first full day in Jodhpur visiting its iconic fort. We resisted the temptation to get a rickshaw straight to its entrance, instead opting to walk the much more rewarding route through the steep alleys behind our hostel up to the fort's base, before following a path which gradually ascended up to the main gate, passing rows of small houses containing children screaming greetings. We would return to that same path a couple of days later in the evening and see the same children playing in the street outside these buildings, doors open to the heaving night, a hum of activity spilling out on to the dusty road, giving us priceless glimpses into the domestic life of the area, women gathering together to make food for their familes with a warm community spirit that doesn't seem to exist back in England, huddling amongst the animals and children in a small courtyard under a dappled electric glow. We got an audio tour with our ticket which proved to be very interesting, colouring every slab of stone, reinforced gate and pretty square with compelling tales that delved deep into Jodhpur's intruiging history. The fort is a magnificent structure, never once taken by force since its conception in around 1459, filled with immaculate carvings, fully restored buildings and interesting artifacts and artworks. We agreed that it was one of the most impressive sites that we had seen thus far, definitely worth the visit. After enjoying the spectacular views of Jodhpur from its high walls, we descended back down to our hostel where we relaxed for the rest of the day, eating, drinking, blogging, writing, resting and recuperating, finally getting some sleep before our tour of some of the local Bishnoi villages the next morning.

DAY 13 - JODHPUR

We got a quick breakfast in the morning before meeting our guide at the hostel along with a nice couple from Surbiton who were to take the village safari with us. It turned out that they were about 6 months into a 10 month journey around the world, having already covered all of South America and Southern India, so they had some travel tips for us and highlighted some good places to visit in the future. After leaving the city sprawl behind us, we eventually arrived at our first village, greeted by the ever-enthusiastic children of India who poured out of huts to catch a glimpse of us. It turned out that the village's main industry was the export of clay water pots to the city and neighbouring villages, so we were taken to the village's main pot maker to get an insight into his trade. His rate of production was incredible, despite using methods unchanged for centuries, churning out about 3 pots in as many minutes immediately after we arrived. After a while it was our turn to have a go and with a bit of help our pots turned out pretty well, except for James', which unfortunately crumpled and fell apart as he attempted to lift it from the spinning wheel, much to the amusement of everyone present. We bade farewell as we departed back down the dusty lane, children chasing our car, intruiged as to what the next village would offer. We visited an animal sanctuary on the way, containing one particular animal I don't think I had ever seen before (and can not remember the name of), a huge deer-like creature that a major Bollywod star apparently got two years in prison for shooting. There were also peacocks and antelopes roaming around a maze of holy trees, creating a real tranquil atmosphere. We were then taken to the source of the local villagers' water - a broad lake apparently containing crocodiles and surrounded by pretty shrubbery, before heading to our second village where we visited a man who was weaving in his hut, a real insight into the domestic lives and self-sufficiency of the village people. We then visited another small settlement where a variety of rugs were manufactured, a local explaining to us how they are made as we watched two young men at work, half way through a rug that would eventually take a month in all to complete. We noticed how the huts in this particular village had solar panels on their roofs, providing them with what little electricity they need. We have noticed the use of sustainable energy a couple of times, the wind-turbines just outside Jaisalmer (where I am typing now), a prime example of India starting to use sustainable resources. However, their casual attitude towards litter and sewage contradicts this ecological ideology, another one of India's many juxtapositions. Finally, we arrived at another small village where we relaxed and tried a little traditional opium tea whilst we watched a woman cook us up a typical village meal. When we were full, we drove back to the hostel after a very interesting and insightful few hours, further uncovering an element of India which has intruiged me ever since I arrived. After chilling at the hostel for a while, we journeyed to 'Bollygood', a very nice Bollywood-themed restaurant, before getting some much needed rest.