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Day 15: Machu Picchu
Today was THE day. The day we'd all been waiting for: to see the infamous Machu Picchu site.
Half our original group were going to be arriving into the site on foot after doing the Inca Trail. The rest of us would have to get up from our cosy bed in a hotel at 5am and get a bus up. Queues for the bus were as long as the street when we arrived there in the dark at 5:30, but thankfully moved quickly and we were on a bus weaving through the forested roads up to Machu Picchu in no time.
The way it works is that when you enter the site a series of arrows and stewards guide you around in a one way system which all ultimately lead to the exit. With our ticket we were able to go in and out three times. So, if you need the loo or want to buy a drink you've to come out of the site before going back in.
Anyway! We queued, got through the entrance check and a few short steps after and the infamous site appeared. Many more steps were climbed and descended throughout the morning to get acquainted with the site. On our first entrance, while waiting for the rest of the Inca Trail guys to arrive, some of us went to see the Inca bridge - effectively a cliff edge walk carved into the mountain side. Low lying fog and clouds made for a striking atmosphere.
Back out at the entrance we met our guide and there were happy faces and hugs when the two different trekking groups were reunited! Amazing that after a few short weeks in these people's company, a few days apart can be a wrench; and a reunion, a joy!
Happily together again, we entered the site for the second time. Here, Edwin (aka Chino) the Inca trail guide, educated us about the Inca site. We were shuttled through various sections of the site in between bursts of other tourists, and given a whistle stop tour of the impressive site. The Incan knowledge and understanding of cosmology and their hierarchy of man, nature and Gods, make for a fascinating architectural narrative. The craftsmanship of stone varied relative to the buildings importance. Rough hewn stone, for the common man; finely carved stone for their kings; and the finest, most perfectly formed and fitted together stones were allocated for their temples and Gods. Seeing these three finishes in tandem, side by side, embody their hierarchy of values.
At first glance, because I've seen it so many times in others travel pictures and also for the high volume of selfie-obsessed tourists that surrounded me, I was a initially a little underwhelmed I have to admit. But as the morning progressed, and as I explored the site seeing it from various angles, I was amazed by the inherent power of the place. As was my feeling visiting the great temples of Angkor Wot in Cambodia, I was also saddened. This site is now no more than another example of how colonial powers ruined once beautiful and powerful society's that had a harmonious relationship with nature.
On our third entry, as the weary Inca Trailers (who'd been trekking since 4am!) shuffled off for a rest, Shan and I embarked on a trip up to the sun gate - the point of entry for the Inca Trail and the first vista of the Machu Picchu site from the ancient trail. Another mini achievement getting up there and a satisfying view of the entire green, jungle, mountain range from this point.
Another frighteningly long queue which moved surprisingly quickly put us back on a bus down afterwards to meet the group for lunch.
A train took us back to Ollantaytambo and there a bus took us to Cusco. Considering how exhausted everyone was from their respective hikes the likelyhood of making the "Big Night Out in Cusco" as per the itinerary was looking slim... however, there on that mini-bus, with 80's and 90's music pumping through the speakers, the mood changed - we were ready to celebrate!
Back in our hostel, we sorted laundry and excitedly got ready. Shan, Holly and I popped out for food - all buzzing we bounced from venue to venue checking out menus, before settling on The Point, the place we first went in Cusco - if it ain't broke! While we ate, a parade burst onto the street! People in shiny costumes and bells on their ankles filled the place with music and celebration - I love Peru!!!
Still climbing on our high, now aided with a few Pisco Sours, we hopped down to Mushroom to meet the rest and danced our way into the group. In need for more focussed dancing, we were led to Mythology night club and walked into a frenzy of Latin music. A good five hours were spent dancing - on the dance floor, the bar and the stage. A couple of Irish girls, who shall remain nameless, may also have shamelessly done a bit of h'aon, do, trí, which seemed to have gone down well! On another level of the club, beside the toilets was an exclusive Latin dance area. It wasn't difficult to coax me into a dance, and I had the most amazing time dancing with this expert dancer who made me feel like I'd never danced a step in my life!!! In another life I'd be living here and dancing this dance everyday...
How and ever, a great night was had by all and one of the best nights out of the trip! The best way to celebrate our big trek.
Accommodation: Cusco Plaza II
Weather: chilly and slightly spitting rain up Machu Picchu; balmy evening in Cusco
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