After a morning in Chicago still marvelling at the Art Deco buildings and their colossal height we are now travelling through the American Mid-West on the Californian Zephyr, a wonderful double decker train. We have our own cabin, cosy but adequate for this fifty hour journey. Sitting now, in what is called the observation coach on outward facing seats with panoramic windows in front and above, we anticipate putting our towels on them for the whole of the journey as they are a great way to see the country. After over two hours travelling we are still in Illinois where some of the fields seem to be the size of Essex!