After a morning in Chicago still marvelling at the Art Deco buildings and their colossal height we are now travelling through the American Mid-West on the Californian Zephyr, a wonderful double decker train. We have our own cabin, cosy but adequate for this fifty hour journey. Sitting now, in what is called the observation coach on outward facing seats with panoramic windows in front and above, we anticipate putting our towels on them for the whole of the journey...

Monday 20 June - wow Chicago exceeded all expectations. Decided slightly reluctantly to plan in a night's stay here to make getting to the California Zephyr easier, but really glad we came. City is huge with towering skyscrapers everywhere (the world's first skyscraper of all of 8 floors was built here in the 1880s and they haven't stopped since!) the traffic is horrendous and there are people everywhere (quite a culture shock after New England) but it's very cle...