Day 24, 28 July 2012, Serengeti National Park -"Up, up and away, in my beautiful balloon...." The only cure for getting that song out of our heads was to take to the skies on a Serengeti Balloon Safari. Despite revelling in the luxury of the Seronera Wildlife Lodge, we barely slept due to chronic BES ("Ballooning Excitement Syndrome). Questions ran through our heads - How good could it be? Could it possibly be worth US$499 per head? We certainly hoped so when the alarm screeched at early-o'clock and we headed out to meet our driver. There were two other men already in the vehicle and we initially thought they were ballooning passengers just like us. After three weeks in East Africa in an overland adventure truck full of camping Germans it was enormously enjoyable to hear English accents (and humour). Which is how we found out they were two of the balloon pilots. Don't worry they said. You'll be fine, they said. You'll get an excellent briefing when we reach the launch site... and you'll be in touch with the ground crew via radio every step of the way... Laughs were had by all but I suspect our German friends probably wouldn't have got the joke. Irrespective of country or accommodation almost every night in Africa had involved a black out, nevertheless, the drive from the lodge to the launch site reminded us how deep and dark Africa can be. The headlights of the 4WD barely pierced the night and even the driver and pilot comedy duo were surprised when a lioness emerged from the long grasses and loped in front of us. There's a reason they are called big cats. They behave just like regular cats... stand up, stretch the front end, stretch the back end and eventually cross the road. She was moving so slowly we suspected she was the mother of the lion cubs we'd seen yesterday - exhausted from hunting and nursing and on her way home for a kip. After our close encounter with the lady lion we arrived at the balloon launch area and found four massive green and gold balloons being prepared for launch. Balloon Safaris is the only operator in the Serengeti and they fly daily, year round. To say they know what they're doing is an understatement. Our new friend from the 4WD, Frank the pilot, ended up being our pilot for the flight and we received a comprehensive safety briefing (as promised). We piled into the wicker basket and gently lifted off, in company with the sun as it rose over the Serengeti plains. There were some first time ballooners with us and the only sounds to be heard over the roar of flames were "Wow".... and "Oh my god!" We suspect the latter was from the follically challenged bloke as he felt the warmth from the flames on his noggin. Warm clothes and a hat were definitely a must as we drifted over the grasslands with three other balloons ahead of us. Unlike a game drive on land where first in is best dressed, to be the last balloon in the group is stupendous. The first pilot alerts the others to the game he sees below and the other balloons can then drift to the same general area. Within a few minutes of ascending, we dropped down to a mere 3 metres above ground and a group of lionesses glanced up at us as if to say "What new game is this"? Onwards and upwards we discovered exactly what hippos smell like as we drifted over a bloat cooling off in the Seronera River. The grasses shimmered in the early morning light as a herd of Impalas scattered beneath us. Of course to just about everyone else in the food chain, Impala are simply known as 'Fast Food'. We even saw a nest complete with eagle and eggs as we skimmed a tree. Ballooning over the Serengeti gave us a privileged view that driving just can not achieve. Aside from anything else, there are vast tracts of land out of bounds to the game trucks, but completely open to the balloons. The ride lasted a little over an hour and it was all too soon when Frank executed a perfect touch down and we heard the champagne corks popping to toast our safe return. The tradition of toasting with champagne began in France in the 1780s. The earliest flights had only animals in the baskets and upon landing these were viewed as demons descending upon the villagers in flames (it usually ended badly for the animals). Legend goes that when the first men safely landed a balloon, the villagers were terrified and firmly in favour of killing demons in the basket. To to prove they were definitely human and indubitably French, the pilots whipped out a bottle of champagne. It was a grand story and whilst there were no frightened villagers, we were more than happy to start drinking at 8.30 am along with our new ballooning friends. Frank's party trick at this point was to balance an open bottle of bubbles on his head. We reckon a sense of humour and superb spatial awareness are excellent qualities in a pilot. After a couple of glasses and a short drive we reached the luxurious wilderness breakfast area. We knew that breakfast was included in the price but didn't know what to expect. Could they really produce anything half decent in the middle of the Serengeti with no kitchen, no water, no nothing? Yes, yes and yes again. We availed ourselves of the Loo with a View and then enjoyed ceremonial hand washing by smartly uniformed staff with massive brass ewers. In short order we were led to two long tables, draped in starched white linens, in the shade of an Acacia tree. They were set with china and Sheffield cutlery and were being supervised by several zebras under a neighbouring tree. A couple of passengers from Sheffield, England were quick to joke they didn't eat this grandly at home. The early start and ballooning excitement ensured everyone had an appetite and we tucked into fresh fruit followed by a full English breakfast and more bubbles. We had seen more game by breakfast time than in a full day on the plains in a 4WD. Damn the expense and full speed ahead - with our ballooning certificates proudly in hand we were driven to meet our game driver for the day. Suffice to say, he had a hard act to follow.