Day 25, 29 July 2012, Lobo Wildlife Area to Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge (at the crater rim) - Today was a big day - they just don't seem to make small ones in Africa. We had a game drive in the Lobo area before returning to the Visitor's centre in Seronera for lunch (the lodges pack a lunch box for each of the great white hunters). Then it was a hell for leather drive to get out of the gate of the Serengeti N.P. by 3.00 pm. Exactly. A minute longer and there would have been a penalty fee (basically park fees cover 24 hours, 48 in our case - so in by 3 pm, out by 3 pm). Due to last minute lion spotting and our driver's compulsion to have a chat with every driver he passed we spent an hour and half on a mini-Paris to Dakar rally, at 100+km per hour on unsealed (and never have been), barely graded, rutted semi-roads. Somewhat conditioned to "African Massage" by now, and suffering a head-cold, I napped for a fair part of the trip but James has mentioned massive four wheel drift for you car types out there. Made it past the chequered flag... sorry, park gate at 2.59.59 pm and then cooled our jets while he signed us out - 2 more hours to get to the next lodge with the pedal to the metal and then our dust laden, sweating, exhausted Toyota Landcruiser (hard core not dolly bird type of 4WD) hauled us up the driveway of the Lodge and James said - Look at the elephant! Yup. Lodge has somewhat large pet who was trundling across the driveway. Today's soundtrack is "heaven.... I'm in heaven.... and my heart beats so that I can hardly speak....." This is, without a doubt, the best lodge yet - perched on the crater rim we see Lake Magadi in the distance and can watch animals through the big-eye binoculars on the terrace. Massive open fire, leather lounges, incredible glass light fittings and a superb dinner. Suspect claw marks will be seen in the doorways tomorrow when they drag me out kicking and screaming to go rhino-hunting in the crater. Bonne nuit, mes amis.