Day 17, 21 July 2012, Mikumi NP to Dar es Salaam, the haven of peace, Tanzania (and also traffic, mucho, mucho traffic) - We left our salubrious accommodations at Tan Swiss Lodge near Mikumi NP. We are truck sore and weary and that is before we board the bone box on wheels. Leaving behind the wilds, we enter the outskirts of Dar es Salaam and find petrol stations on every second corner - finally we know where the petroleum tankers were heading! We are assaulted on all sides by the roughness, loudness and packed streets of Dar. The jeepneys, the minivans, ox-drawn carts and kami-kaze pedestrians are pressing up against our western sense of order. We hear the muezzin calling the faithfull to prayer at 5 am. Finally some company for the roosters that usually wake us. The vast majority in Dar and Zanzibar are Muslim and we have just entered the holy month of Ramadan - no eating, no drinking between sunrise and sunset, no smoking and no dishonesty for a whole month. Quite a challenge - but jolly good for haggling in the tiny streets. We finally arrived at Kipepeo Beach Camp on the outer outskirts of Dar es Salaam. It was a challenging afternoon. About an hour from our camp we witnessed how cheap life is and how dangerous the living. We saw a minivan with a smashed windscreen - at which point my photographic memory kicked in and the image of a torn human body beneath the van was indelibly inked into my mind. Tears. Fear. Promise to self to live every single minute.