Day 12,16 July 2012, Lilongwe to Kande Beach - 380 km or 6-7 hours over good roads (that's African for actual roads). We have consulted the hit parades of our lives and an old American TV show comes to mind - "BJ McKay and his best friend, Bear" - the slogan we recall is "Keep on Truckin'" and that is indeed what we are doing today. Coincidentally, "Bear" was trucker BJ's pet chimpanzee and our morning was to include some serious primate-watching. First thing this morning we left Barefoot Lodge (www.barefoot-safaris.com/index_files/Barefootlodge.htm) and visited the Lilongwe Wildlife Centre which is Malawi's only sanctuary for rescued orphaned and injured wildlife. They are at pains to point out it is not a zoo - but the (mildly) electrified fences belie that fact. There is a charming colour coded map at the entry that shows the layout of the enclosures and which animals are where. But we shouldn't look for the Hyena because he died a long time ago. (Released into God's wilderness perhaps.) It is a far cry from the open plains of the National Park we just left but some cases are heart warming - for instance Bella the lioness was rescued from a Romanian circus. She has rickets in her hind legs due to having been kept in near freezing conditions. She has lost one eye. But Bella is now in a much better place - when she came out to inspect the humans on show on the far side of the fence she was letting out massive big-cat purrs and found her favourite chew toy (a truck tyre) to roll around with. Happiness from sadness this time around. As an aside, we saw the Body Shop Foundation on the sponsors board at the entrance to the centre. I will remember Bella's rumbling purrs the next time I pick up some body butter on the high street.