As we were staying in a fairly central area of town, we decided it would be good to have a walk, look around and get our bearings. We made it about 200 meters from the guesthouse, when I became aware of a motorbike driving slowly behind us, just as I was about to turn around to look at him, he sped up beside us, leaded off his bike and snatched my bag. Luckily the handle snapped so I wasn't dragged down the street and there was nothing of real value in there, but it hurt my arm, and really shook me up. We went back to the guesthouse and the landlady, who seemed genuinely upset, proceeded to give us a string of safety tips, including putting your backpack on frontwards instead of backwards when on a motorbike to avoid someone grabbing it as you go past, pulling you off, then cutting your bag off you and running away. "Lots of visitors die this way!" she told us gravely. Great. Thanks for that - feel much better now! The rest of the day was much better - we checked out the spectacular Royal Palace and the National Museum and then explored the bustling little streets surrounding them, leading down to the river-front, which are lined with little art galleries and cafes and bars. We found a lovely bar overlooking the expansive river - Phnom Penh is the point when the Mekong and the Tonle Sap rivers merge - sat back and watch the bustle of traffic and people on the esplanade which runs along the riverfront. We ended up having a great night, chatting to a really nice expat guy, Alex, and then, when we emerged onto the street some hours later, we found a tuk-tuk and managed to negotiate a ride home plus a full day's sightseeing the next day for US$10 - not bad considering the number of beers we'd had! The next day was heavy-going. Of course we knew about the Khmer Rouge and we knew that they'd murdered over 2 million of their own people but you just can't prepare yourself for the Killing Fields and S21, an inner-city high school which the Khmer Rouge converted into a torture camp for intellectuals (pretty much anyone who went to university), foreigners (non-Khmer Cambodians plus quite a few westerners) and the disabled. The rooms are still there with the stained beds and some of the torture-weapons. One of the buildings has been turned into a photo gallery - they photographed each person who came though - and you can't really explain how it makes you feel to walk through there, past the 17 thousand gaunt faces with their haunted eyes and knowing that they were all, including many children, murdered here in painful and terrible ways - and less than 30 years before. Although part of you feels you should see this and people must know about it, another part feels that it's so very wrong to turn this place of horror and misery into a tourist attraction. This is why we didn't take any photos at S21, and only 1 of the memorial tower on the eerily peaceful site of the Killing Fields. We're glad we saw it, but we'd never want to go back.