If one more person stops me for a polite chat, only to enquire "is that bag heavy?" The conversation won't continue politely. Of course it's f'ing heavy - I haven't just stuffed it with newspaper for visual effect have I? Yes - it's heavy, yes - i'm very hot in the sun today and no - I haven't got an umbrella to shade me. I don't think i'm losing things in translation I do just encounter some random conversations on my way.

Last week a woman in an electric wheelchair ran me off the pavement and then asked to swap legs as hers were no good any more. Did she then want me to continue walking with her worn out legs or was she throwing the chair in with the deal? Because my feet would happily have taken a spin in an electric chair that day!

Another slightly concerning thing is the reaction i'm causing amongst drivers. It would seem that pale, sweaty, English women with big rucksacks are not a common sight in France. So it's imperative to stare as you pass me - no matter about junctions, on-coming traffic or road signs. I do genuinely fear I'm going to cause an accident at some point. I feel like getting a poncho made that i can a) hide under and b) write a sign on saying "yes I am walking on your roads, on my own with a heavy bag now pay some attention to the bloody road and shut your gasping mouth!

On a different note though, I hooked up with my new wingman today - the river Loire will be my companion for the coming weeks. I was looking forward to a refreshing breeze from the water today, but instead most of the 30km was through my first vineyards. Hot and dusty, Warm enough even to sport the shorts and complete the hiking geek look. I arrived in Amboise in time for a sunset over the river and an evening stroll around my first Loire chateau. Since then I have found myself agreeing to talk to some students about my trip - in French - gulp! Let's hope nothing gets too lost in translation there.