Ujjain: Bhopal to Ujjain was a lovely, uneventful ride. As the passenger it is such an adventure to sit, snuggle into Mendo's back and feel the wind in my hair (and occasionally get whipped by Mendo's dread-locks...) and see the sun rising around us. We have good, sturdy boots, strong decorated helmets and I have wrist-guards which I attach our Sony camera to for capturing moments which pass by in a flash. We found Ujjain to be a very friendly, happy city full of...

Delhi: Finally Shepa was finished!!! We drove him 200km's around Delhi to make sure, and all seemed good. So after waiting 3 weeks for him, we set off into the sunrise, towards central India: Madhya Pradesh. Agra: The adventure begins... Travelling by motorbike is a whole new kettle of fish and from now on we must look for hotels which have some kind of parking for Shepa. Easy in theory, hard in practice (like so much of India...). A quick "hello my love&qu...

Yesterday a man asked me what the 'bad rash' I had was from... and so I had to try to describe what freckles were! With his limited english I failed miserably and he just thought I should see a doctor. I'm reading a book called "May you be the mother of 100 sons". It's a 10 year old book about women in India. Today I read about arranged marriages and re-incarnation. Hindu's believe that you are with the 'essence' of your husband for 7 years. Hence, in ...

Road sign: "Hell or Helmet, it's your choice" Indian Law: If you are a female passenger, you do not legally have to wear a helmet. If you are a male passenger, you legally have to wear a helmet (helmets can be anything from an actual Motorcycle helmet, to a cricket helmet, to a horseriding helmet to a building site helmet). Rules of Indian roads (from a Catalan driver): 1) you must only look forward, never to the sides. 2) if your car or motorbike has ...

Love, Love, Love. That's what the Taj Mahal is all about. You're reminded of this as you walk around polluted Agra by posters which have a picture of Love Birds and in English: 'Made for each other'... or a restaurant claiming it has 'yummy and romantic food'. We haven't been inside the grounds of the Taj yet, but yesterday we witnessed the sunset embracing it. We walked down the side of the Taj to the foreshore where there was a gruff looking military man. Once ...