I think the emotion of surprise is my most favourite... or at least a close second to LOVE. It's such a raw, uncontrolled, unbiased emotion which is expressed in so many ways. On our journeys we are witnessing truck-loads of it and I never get sick of it, it still brings a smile to my lips and a thrill to my heart. It's special because since we appear so briefly in Indian and Nepalese people's life, zooming past on a red Royal Enfield, we are a subtle kind of surprise - but once their eyes connect with us: BAM! We witness that momentary amazement as we disrupt their everyday lives just for a few seconds. We've literally seen cigarette's fall from mouths, a kid fall in a hole after stepping back absently whilst staring at us, eyes blinking to ensure they really saw us, fingers pointed, eyes bulge, eyebrows raise, mouths gape, screaming and laughing. The facial characteristics of surprise are intrigueing, you can read them like a book. First they hear Shepa which isn't that different since there are hundreds of motorbikes being ridden here (although in Nepal rarely Royal Enfields which have a very distinct deep sound). Then they see Mendo and their eyes show the first sign of surprise... and confusion. Indians and Nepalese have asked us if he is a local, so when they see him so briefly they wonder if he is... but why does he have such large arms, holy man hair and a nose ring? (Indians don't have muscles like Mendo's, only some Saddhu's/Holy men have dred-locks and only women have nose rings.) Then they see a silly, grinning white girl holding on behind him and realise they are definatly foreigners... what a surprise to see foreigners on a motorbike all the way out here, off the tourist track - how funny, they must be lost! But this all happens in a few brief moments. I sometimes find myself strangely disappointed when I spot one of the few who don't show surprise...

We didn't think too much of Varanasi. We found it very touristy and have seen much better worship along other rivers in India as well as temples and devotion. Unfortunately the boat men were participating in a strike when we were there so we couldn't float along the Ganges but instead were content to dip our big toe in and witness life from the ghats. We enjoyed the racious weddings parading and blocking the streets and the bicycle rickshaws who let Mendo be the driver. From Varanasi we headed up towards Nepal and stayed the night in an unknown town which didn't possess a hotel. Instead we bunked in a Wedding facility which had rooms available for pissed guests - it was great fun! The next day we drove for the border which we passed through without incident, gaining our Visa on the way. On the drive up to Pokhara it rained, reminding us that we needed to purchase some wet-weather gear... Beautiful Pokhara held us for a couple of days before we ventured off on a trek. Phedi to Jinu, Jinu to Tadopani, Tadopani to Ghorapani, Ghorapani to Poon Hill to N? (I'll update this bit another time when I have my note-book with me)

Since the trek we've made our way slowly to Kathmandu, stopping for 2 nights at the Royal Chitwan National Park where we took an elephany safari and spotted amongst other things a few Rhinocerous! What strange looking creatures they are... and in absolute contrast to the irridescent prettyness of the peacocks which share the same habitat. In Kathmandu we've been just chilling, enjoying the less chaotic ancient charm of the city. Stephan joined us for a few days and we went on a fun road-trip almost to Jiri. Thanks to some more rain we only saw a few mountains but after some vino tinto, yak cheese and olives on crackers it was fun to try to convince ourselves that the big one in the distance was Everest (of course it wasn't). Mendo's parents and brother Marc flew in to Nepal for a few days - a lovely surprise to see Marc's smiling face as we were only expecting Trini and Marco. We joined them on a short tour of Kathmandu, seeing the 2 Durbar Squares and the big Buddhist Stupa. Kathmandu really is a beautiful city and thanks to the guide we learnt about some very interesting facts. We also took them out to Baktapur, a glorious ancient city in the next district. Mendo and I were excited to join the family at their hotel for breakfasts - after having local food from street stalls for 7 months, a croissant and bacon is mind-blowing! It seems India isn't for everyone and I believe Trini, Marco and Marc are not interested in returning to the country. We experienced a little bit of why - strict timetables and being serious targets for beggars and street sellers who do not take NO for an answer. Of course the dirtyness and poverty is not particularly appealing either... it was really great to spend some quality time with Mendo's family and discover a beautiful city with them. On their last day I had a 12 hour virus which is the first time I've been intimate with the toilet bowl on this journey. It passed quickly and I was in form again for the next day: HOLI! Yes, I'm sure you've seen pictures of it - little Indian children throwing water and brightly coloured powder at each other... well it's not just for children! Mendo and I fully participated in this wonderfully fun day and let our inner child run freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Our hotel supplied buckets of water, powder paint and plastic bags to fill and throw at our hearts content. It seemed to be your residence against everyone else, so we stood along-side the 5 Nepalese guys who work at our hotel and threw our water bombs at anyone silly enough to run past in the street or the neighbours or the people across the street etc. It was such a blast! Luckily a hot shower, a cotton bud and good soap worked wonders after we caught all the action. The next day we woke up aching... ah yeah Holi Festival!

We've now been travelling for 7 months. I'm ready for some normality again but Mendo says he could easily continue travelling for another 7. I think if the months hadn't been spent in full-on India, then I wouldn't be as jaded as I am - but we still have a few months left. In 2 days we go off into the wilderness of Nepal to do some Voluntary work for a couple of weeks before returning on election day to wrap mum firmly in my arms (how will I ever let go???).

Congratulations to Danny, Simone and Jono who have a beautiful new addition to their family: Jeremy Yakich. Welcome to the family Jeremy - you will be loved and cherished every day of your long life. Love to everyone out there - we are both happy and healthy and hope you are also.

Love Nic and Mendo.