After the stifling heat of Cartagena we needed some beach time and so headed up the coast to the Santa Marta area. The ultimate target was the Tayrona National Park but we first stayed for a couple of nights in El Rodadero, a supposedly upmarket beach destination for Colombians.

Erm. What to say? The town is inoffensively non-descript (previously upmarket would be a more accurate description), the beach pretty nice but nothing to write home about. But fine for a relaxing beach day.

The police are obviously more relaxed in the heat, unlike in Salento the poster of the local most wanted didn't contain any reward information. That being the case we kept schtum about all the local hoodlums we met.

The hostel (Casa del Ritmo) was notable for a few things : only recently opened in an attempt to revive the town as a destination for travellers and doing a good job; low ceilings in the rooms that meant both Fabrice and I almost lost fingers in the ceiling fan whilst taking off t-shirts; a cute little 9 week old kitten who took particular pleasure in attacking Fabrice's feet; and most importantly the first playing of a Shakira song we'd heard since being here - we were being to doubt her Colombian authenticity!!

We spent one evening in Santa Marta itself, the oldest surviving city in Colombia. Mix of restored and dilapidated buildings of varying aesthetic interest. We hit upon a street of half a dozen or so extremely cool restaurants and so had a very pleasant evening.

Next stop, Parque Nacional Natural de Tayrona. Or paradise.