The journey to KL from Melaka was uneventful, we checked into Fernloft Hostel (due to it's excellent reviews online!) and went to KLCC for some dinner and a quick dash around the shopping mall. Most of the night was spent chilling in our dorm as we had a early start to catch our flight to Borneo. 

Our journey to Borneo was also uneventful, much to Helen's delight after a frustrating week in Pulau Tioman and the very eventful bedbug night in Mersing. Perhaps this is the start of something good!?

Nick was showing his frustration at the length of the journey, an hour plus from the hostel to the airport, waiting at the airport, flying time and waiting for transport at Kota Kinabalu (KK). Needless to say, Nick was very grumpy and Helen was steering clear! 

On arrival at KK, we waited over an hour for the local bus as we did not want to splurge on a taxi, We made our way to Sensi Backpackers - again for it's excellent reviews online! Sensi Backpackers is a "home from home", tastefully done, beds are comfortable, the showers actually work and finally no bedbugs! Our hostel is located on Jalan Gaya, or otherwise known as Bond Street when the Brits were in control of North Borneo.

KK is on Sabahs west coast, was previously known as Jesselton when it was British North Borneo. KK was rebuilt after World War II. Outside of KK, much of the state (Sabah) remains forested making it one of the largest rain forests in the world. Here in Sabah there are over 32 ethnic communities speaking over 80 dialects. KK is in the Malaysian state of Sabah, and it's said that God made Sabah on his day of rest and released all of Noahs animals.

The evening was spent at the hostel, Nick feeling very sorry for himself as he didnt feel too good so while he was napping, Helen had ample opportunity to update the blog and catch up with friends. 

After a good nights sleep on a clean comfortable mattress, we had breakfast provided for by the hostel then went for a walk with Alex, a German traveller who is heading back to Cologne today. We bid our farewells and went for a wander around the shopping mall and Central market which is the main Market for produce and bought a massive watermelon. Helen found a few rats hiding underneath the stalls and managed to get a sneaky photo of one. We then wandered around the handicraft Market where they sell inexpensive souvenirs, pearls, jewellery and bamboo goods.

After watching the opening ceremony of the Rugby World Cup, much to Nicks delight, we went to Bella Italia (in no way related to the chain back home) as they had a 50% off deal and Nick wanted comfort food. We went for a wander around KK looking around the night Market, we were very disappointed with it as we had built up high expectations as Lonely Planet said "KK's brilliant night Market is a place of delicious contrasts....blah blah...if you have never seen a Southeast Asian Market, this place will be a revelation" needless to say, it was a huge disappointment! Perhaps the weather had something to do with it! The heavens had opened while we were out, both of us got absolutely soaked. Helen thought it was fun while Nick wanted to get back to the hostel as he wanted to be warm! 

We also saw a woman selling cigarettes on the roadside, she had two young children probably about aged 4 with her. Helen could not believe her eyes when she saw that they were playing with matches and burning stuff much to their mothers ignorance. If this had happened in the UK, Social Services would have been reported by a passerby. You can take Helen away from Social Work but you can't take the Social Worker out of her!

On our detour we found the evening food stalls where they sell live seafood and you can choose what you want to eat there and then. Initially Nick said without hesitation "we're eating here tomorrow" but after seeing how the fish were kept, Nick said he would rather eat a lively fish rather than a depressed fish! As cultural as it may be, Helen could not wait to get out. Since she started scuba diving many moons ago she believes that fish belong underwater, in addition the Market was selling shark fins and while it's cultural she cannot get over Gordon Ramsays program.... 

The next day was spent chilling at the hostel as Nick wasn't feeling well, Helen made him go and see a doctor so that he can nip his illness in the bud before Sipadan. Nick was amazed by the efficiency of the Malay doctor, reportedly younger than Nick he managed to see and issue medication in less than an hour and the cost was a measly 45rm. Why can't the NHS learn some lessons from Malaysia? Helen used this opportunity to wash some clothes, do some reading and check for bedbugs. (yes Helen still has them on her brain).

We went out to Kedai Kopi Fatt Kee, a highly recommended Chinese restaurant for dinner and explored the night Market to give it a chance following our disappointment yesterday. The verdict still remains, KK's night Market is absolutely rubbish. 

All in all, Kota Kinabalu is a disappointment, the markets are rubbish and theres not a.   lot to do unless you book an expensive tour out of the city. However, our hostel was a godsend. If you find yourself visiting KK, Sensi Backpackers is the place to stay!

The following morning we woke early to make our long journey to Sepilok. Although we had left our hostel at a ridiculously early hour, the Sunday market was in full force and looks much more interesting than any other market in KK. Thankfully we'll be back in KK before we know it, to check it out!

We had to brave the six hour bus trip up to Sepilok through the beautiful Bornean rain forests.  For those who came to our farewell party you will remember Borneo has the worlds largest rain forest.  The driver seemed to think that the best way to drive around mountain roads was to screech around corners at breakneck speed. Helen suffered slight travel sickness however it subsided after watching 'just go with it' which turned out to be funny! We did pass Mount Kinabalu, and congratulated ourselves on our decision not to climb it (it looked a bit high from up close).

We finally arrived at Sepilok, tired and weary. The bus abandoned us at a roundabout otherwise known as mile 14. We had no idea how to get to Pagankan Dii (a hostel/longhouse) right in the middle of the Bornean rainforest. Helen suggested that they walk but Nick being more sensible said we had to get a taxi so we did. On arrival at Pagankan Dii both Helen and Nick could not believe the beauty of the rainforest. Words cannot describe it! Nick being the typical male only had one thing on his mind.... The Wales Vs South African game. Not even the beautiful scenery could distract him. 

We booked ourselves into a longhouse for 2 nights, where there's about 12 beds but we were the only people in our longhouse. Needless to say the insects that come in will have loads of fun over night. Our longhouse is at the canopy level of the rain forest! 

The following morning, we woke up in surprise that neither one of us got bitten! Off we went to spend the morning at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre where we watched the orang-utans being fed and raided by macaques. The rehabilitation centre is one of 4 in the world, and it was a great feeling seeing them in their homeland of Borneo, orang-utans are native to both Borneo and Sumatra. If you feel like sponsoring one go to www.orang-utan-appeal.org.uk   

The afternoon was spent at the Rainforest Discovery Centre which included a canopy skywalk, Helen was nervous of this but managed to make her way across slowly but surely. By this point the Bornean sun was scorching, both of us were hungry only to find the cafe was closed so we headed back to our hostel earlier than expected for food and a major chill out reading in hammocks! Of course we were thinking of you guys in your daily jobs(!) 

The next morning, five and a half hours was spent on a bus to Semporna, Semporna in the Bajau and Malay language literally means 'perfect', however in contrast the lonely planet describes it as a lacklustre layover!! We went to Semporna simply because it was our departure point for Mabul/Sipadan. Mabul/Sipadan is another adventure in itself!