We caught the 5.50am train to the Bangkok border which was busy but ok. We drifted in and out of sleep, everytime I awoke my mouth was wide open and I had someone different sitting next to me, so I've looked like a fool in front of many many Thais now! We got in a tuktuk to get from the train station to the border and were dropped at a house in the middle of a field being told that this was the Cambodian visa station. The guys tried to charge us $40 each and would only accept baht, both facts went directly against what we had been told. So we politely declined to buy our visas from the 'official' visa post and took our chances at the border. Turns out we were completely in the right and that we had managed to avoid a scam. Us 1, Them Nil!

We got across the border eventually and then got a share taxi to Siem Reap and found ourselves a great guest house for not much spondulicks. That night was the world cup final, so despite the fact that our sleep patterns over the last few days hadnt allowed for much sleep we found ourselves at a club called Angkor What? and stayed up until 4.30am to enjoy the lack of thrills the final brought us. I ended up with a glass cut in my leg and the guy who caused it was evicted from the club but that was about as exciting as the game got for me. That and a free t-shirt!

We got up late the following day and discovered that if you buy a ticket to Angkor for one day you are allowed in for free for sunset the night before. So we found ourselves a tuktuk and headed to see Angkor for about 5pm. We chose Angkor wat as the one for that evening and it is truly stunning. Huge and delapidated but this does not deter from how magnificent it must have been once. We also bumped into a person we met on HaLong Bay who had cycled round for the day, so inspired by her we decided to save ourselves the $20 or so for a tuktuk for the next day and hired bike for a dollar each. Bargain. A fantastic way to see the sights too. The site is about 8km from the hostel and there is a small route which can be followed which is 17km so some much needed exercise was gained and a leisurely sightseeing day was done. We saw the temple from Lara Croft, Tomb Raider, Bayon which is famous for the four heads and some other amazing temples. After one day we were definatley templed out though.
So Phnom Pehn bound we were.

Getting off the bus in Phnom Penh there were more touts than western people so we bolted and decided to walk in the general direction we wanted at least for a bit. This paid off as some guys stopped their tuktuk and took us to their hostel which turned out to be where we wanted to be and was pretty cool. Lakeside and perched out over the lake meaning that we could lie in hammocks and watch the sunset over the lake. Perfect.

Phnom Penh is not only the capital but also the center of understanding the crimes of the Khmer Rouge. Its so atrocious it would almost be unbelieveable. We went to visit the killing fields and S-21 with a couple who we shared a tuktuk with. The killing fields were where the prisoners were taken by the Khmer Rouge to kill them (its all in the name). Several thousand prisoners were taken through here in the four year regime and then buried in mass graves. Since then the mass graves have been excavated and a museum added. However, since the site is on a river plain bones and clothes continue to raise to the surface so in one area there was a skull. There is also a tree which was used to kill babies against in order to save bullets and it is stil possible to see teeth poking out of the tree. Truly horific. The prison was also not so enjoyable. It is stil largely in the same condition as it was found, with tiny cells and torture areas intact. Approximately 14,000 people went through this prison and only 12 lived to tell the tale. There is a war crimes trial being undertaken at the moment with the leader of S-21 on trial and the results due imminently so it will be interesting to see what the outcome is. The guy on trial thinks that he has done his dues since he has been in prison for the last 11 years waiting for his trial. Needless to say I hope that he remains in that prison for the rest of his days.
We didnt do a huge amount else in Phnom Pehn.

We had a couple of quiet nights out but since we have been on the road for such a long time already we were happy to chill in the hostel and watch tv. We have organised to be in an orphanage for 10 days after this and we are certainly ready to be in one place for a long period of time.