We left Cambodia at the end of March. This was quite an eventful and lengthy journey over land into Thailand and then on to Bangkok. We spent a day enjoying the coolness of the air-conditioning in the numerous shopping malls. The following day we set off to Kanchanaburi famous for the 'Bridge over the River Kwai' (you may have see the film). We visited the bridge, museum, cemetery and markets here. We learnt a lot about the devastating conditions prisoners of war endured here during World War Two (don't worry I am not going to give you a history lesson in this update). We stayed in a lovely guesthouse on the river bank. It was then back to Bangkok, quick look around chatachack market (which was unbearably hot) and then to the train station to catch an overnight train to Chumpon, followed by a boat trip, destination.....the beautiful south east islands of Thailand!

We arrived in Koh Tao were Neil enrolled on the Padi Open Water course, which he passed with flying colours (getting 100% in his final exam) making him a certified diver. We hired out a moped and had a good look around the island, Visited a place called shark bay where we went snorkelling to see if we ould see sharks. After about an hour when we were about to give up, we saw 5 black tipped reef sharks (Neil says he saw 6, but he does always like to get one better!). Initially this was a little scary especially when I thought they were circling me (they were actually just swimming away). I know that reef sharks will not harm us and they are only about 1.5-2 metres in length but they still look a bit like jaws (well to me anyway).

The time then came for the Leyland arrivals, which was most exciting seeing Em & Russ arrive on Koh Tao. They had kindly brought over a few provisions for us which included the much needed oil of olay moisturiser (thanks Mum, skin is feeling considerably softer). We had a great time, hired out bikes and went snorkelling to various bays around the island, including Hin Wong Bay were we attempted a bit of (unsuccessful) snorkel fishing. There are so many different types of beautifully coloured fish here it was amazing. We also snorkelled at a shipwreck where we were surrounded by thousands of fish. It was like being in a washing machine of fish as they swam round and round us.

We ate and drank beers on the beach. The atmosphere was just so relaxed. We had a fantastic night at a lady boy show, were at the end Russ was on stage wearing a figure hugging black mini dress and sporting a large feather boa on his head! Russ and Em were branded true travellers by buying essential travel paraphernalia (bands on their wrists) and hence in true traveller style we commenced island hopping.

We caught a ferry to Koh Pha Ngan, where we arrived just in time for Songkran. This is the Thai new year and is celebrated by everyone throwing water at one another. People were walking around with water pistols. Pick-ups would drive past with people and tubs on the back full of gallons of water. Kids would be on the side of the road poised with hosepipes and buckets of water, ready to throw at us as we went past on dirt bikes. You basically spent the whole day soaked to the skin! But it was good fun, although slightly shocking when iced water came you way!

Next was Koh Samui which is the biggest and most commercial of the Islands. We only spent a night here (a bit costly for our budget), but managed to fit in a thai massage and plenty of beers. Good time had by all. We parted ways with Em and Russ and decided to take a trip to the west side....Krabi. Here we stayed in Ao Nang and took a boat trip out to the beautiful Hat Rai Leh and Hat Ton Sai beaches. The scenery here is so picturesque, with amazing lime stone rock formations. Its no surprise that Krabi is a climbers mecca. Unfortunately we did not have time to participate in rock climbing as we chose to meet Tom, Son and Sean (the guys we did the bike trip with in Laos) on Koh Pha Ngan for the full moon party.....

.....one to many vodka buckets. Outcome....waking up in the morning with a rather bad head and covered in bruises (there were far too many obsticles along the beach). Managed to loose my flip flops, however managed to return with a none matching pair which fit perfectly. Did slightly better than Neil who also returned with a none maching pair, however one a size 6 and the other a size 11!

Spent a few days chilling on Koh Pha Ngan on a lovely beach called Haad Yuan (which is only reachable by boat) then back to Koh Tao for a spot of scuba diving and snorkle fishing with Tom, Son and Sean. Neil did his Advanced Diving course (so he can dive to 30 metres like the rest of us). On his final dive to complete the course he saw a whale shark (about 6 metres). He was icredably lucky being in the right place at the right time, Some dive instructors who have been diving here for a few years have not seen a whale shark. Anyway I do not want to discuss this anymore as feelings of nausea associated with extreme jealousy is begining to kick in!

Our time in Thailand was to come to a end. We caught an overnight boat, a bus to the Malaysian boarder and an overnight train. Finally after 36 hours of travelling we arrived in Kualar Lumpur at 9am. Quick shower and then out to see the city (we only had 7 days before we had to get to Singapore). Lots of skyscrapers and busy streets which was a real change compared to the last month island hopping. We went to the Patronas Towers and for trip up the Telecom tower at night, wonderful views. Ate some clay pot food. Must admit seemed to find it almost impossible to find some authentic malay food. However due to the large population of indians living in Mayaysia we never struggled to come across a good curry!

We headed north to Taman Negara (the jungle) the national park which was just fantastic. We stayed in a small jungle hut were we could hear all kinds of stange and unusual noises at night. We went trekking up hill. Neil was adamant that he had managed to sweat out the equivilant of his entire body weight in water! We walked across a 40 metre high canopy walk with great views. Everywhere was so green and lush. We never saw any jungle animals, but could hear things moving about. However with the volume of my voice I probably scared them off before we could see anything. However we saw plenty of rather large insects. You could actually stay overnight in hides situated aroud the jungle where you were advised to tie your food up above the ground in order not to attract rodents and other creatures. We never got around to doing this!!

We both kindly made a generous blood donation to the leeches that attached to us! They were out in force as the weather was glorious throughout the day but had a tendancy to rain at night. We did a long strenuous (after a lengthy period chilling on a beach everything seemed strenuous) walk to a bat cave. The cave was only 80 metres in length however took about 30 minutes to get through. It was a really tight squeeze requiring us to literally crawl through bat poo and a leech riddled stream. Felt like quite an adventure, however we both smelt quite offensive afterwards. Never been so close to bats in my life. Only spent a few day here, but if we had had time we would have stayed for longer. The people in Malaysia are just so helpful and friendly.

We got on a train direct to Singapore which is another skyscraper city and exceptionally clean. People again so friendly, we arrived at about midnight, had no currency and there were no taxi's. A couple saw us outside the train station and kindly took us to an ATM and then dropped us off at our hostel. Much to Neils horror it was to be our first night of many in a dredded shared dorm!!! The following day we lost our heads and bought a laptop and other electronic stuff. Probably due to alcohol withdrawal, didnt have a single alcoholic beverage whilst in Malaysia, it was far too expensive for our budget (4 pounds a pint, we were living off less than 15 pounds a day!). Also it is so tempting because its so cheap, budget sort of went out the window, but I soon managed to catch hold of it again. Neil has a tendancy to mimic the character out of Little Britain who sits at a desk, people ask her questions, she bangs on the keyboard and responds with 'computer says noooooo', however he says the word 'budget' instead of computer. I think he is suggesting that I am like that character!!

The next day we boarded a plane (8th May), destination The Northern Territory, Australia! To be continued.........

Tan & Neil

Oh, you may have noticed that you have missed an update from Cambodia, well probably not, but you have, however don't worry Neil will be filling you in on that chapter of our journey....