Laos, well where do I begin? An absolute pleasure is a start.

After leaving Vang Vieng and the novelty of 'tubing' we headed to the capital Vietaine and participated in the traditional thing that is done here on a Saturday night.............bowling (of the ten pin variety). Only spent a night in Laos capital as the friends we made in India were also in Laos but heading in the opposited direction. They were due to be arriving in a place called 'Tha Khaek' (south of Vietaine) and intended on doing a bit of biking. As Neil had hurt his foot and wandering the capital required two good feet, we thought that getting around on bikes may be some what easier. Thus decided to hop (quite literally in Neil case) on a bus the following day and try our luck at bumping into our friends.

Arrived in Tha Khaek and randomly picked a guesthouse, as we walked in the door I saw our friends (everyone very excited), had a few beers and we began making plans for a 3 day motorbike tour (I use the description 'motorbike' loosely, as these vehicles were more like scooters/mopeds but with gears and could go a bit faster) of the area. Four English, an Irishman and an American set off on a journey with a hand drawn map which resulted in one flat tyre, one injury, one petrol crisis (which I think is pretty good going over 3 days especially considering some of the terrain we endured) and a whole lot of fun!!

The scenery was just beautiful everywhere we looked. All along the way people were so friendly and welcoming. We visited some caves (one whch was quite impressive as it was under water and was 6km long) and went swimming in a lake with local children. We rode on some lovely winding roads, slid along sand, just about maintained balance when going through 2 inch thick gravel and a lot lot more...... The first night we stayed in some small lodgings in a village. We had dinner across the way (which was either rice or noodle, I cant remember but when out in the sticks these are your only 2 options really) and the man there insisted that we drank '"lao lao' with him and his friends. Which we did without hesitation as refusal is deemed really quite rude (honestly). Neil enjoys this drink but its a bit to harsh for me, but I endulge regardless. Lao lao is another one of these homemade whiskey type of drinks, with no regulations on its alcohol content, hence why our host was passed out by about 9pm! Apparently lao lao is the drink of choice for those with less money and beer laos is for those with money. The second night we stumbled across a lovely place set by the river, where we stayed in small huts.

I digress........I had previously failed to mention that the Laos people have endured difficult times in the past through no fault of there own. My knowledge of English history is pretty poor so before arriving in this amazing country I was unaware of its history. When in Eastern Laos (Phonsavan) we learnt about the impact the 'secret war' had on Laos, as this was one of the most affected areas. Apparently Laos is one of the most heavily bombed countries in the world. An average of 1 bomb every 8 minutes was dropped between 1965 -1973 by the Americans to so call prevent pro-Vietnamese forces from gaining control over the area. When they couldn't find their targets in Vietnam due to bad weather, they just dumped their load on the Laos countryside. Airplanes couldn't land with the bombs on board.

Fortunately various charitable organisations have been involved in helping to clear up the Unexplored Ordinance (UXO) making areas safe for the local people, but they still have a long way to go. A lot of potential farming ground goes unused as it is unsafe and huge craters can be seen in the ground were no vegitation can grow. People still die every year due to the UXO's, especially when people who discover UXO's may try to defuse them to make money from the scrap metal, risking their lives in the process.

One thing I definately noticed about Laos people is that despite a devistating history and despite having very little they always seemed happy and accommodating. They get on with life not holding grudges and make the most of the resources around them. You very rarely see people begging, as family and friends seem to care for one another. The children just smile all the time, they did not need the latest computer games console, but play happily with catapults or pushing tyres along with sticks. Dont think I ever heard a Laos child cry.......

We had an absolutely amazing time, think I had forgotten just how much fun can be had on 2 wheels. Hence we left our friends and headed to Paske to do yet more touring around on motorbikes (however bottom was beginning to get a little sore). Once again the people and scenery made yet another enjoyable trip (you will need to check out our blog for some pictures). Although on this trip I did get attacked by what must have been bed bugs as I had about 60 bites all in a line down the left side of my body. For some reason Neil went untouched!

Our final destination in Laos was Don Det (4,000 Islands) which was the closest thing Laos had to a seaside destination, however it was not by the sea but an Island on the mighty Mekong River, but it worked. Had a relaxing time, hired out pushbikes and visted a waterfall, searched unsuccessfully for the rare dolphins that can be found here and washed my laundry in the river.

Neil and myself continue to get on wonderfully apart from the odd disagreement/argument such as Neils inability to comprehend that people with hair require shampoo and that shower gel will not surfice. However we always come to a compromise and I bought 2 in 1! Also he appears to have developed the belief that beer is a daily necessity (for hydration I think)!!!!!!!

We are currently in Cambodia, however I shall save this tale for the next update. As I am sure I have waffled on enough already.......