Antigua

After a full day of travelling in a minibus we arrived in Antigua. The journey showed us a lot of Guatemala. The country was beautiful, very similar to Honduras as you would expect. Mountainous, with 27 or so volcanoes, the country was covered in rain forest and scattered small rural villages which is why 61% of the countries languages are still indigenous. Just before arriving in Antigua we passed through Guatemala City, this high-rise city is big and, in my opinion, not at all aesthetically pleasing. Like all capital cities in Central America it has a reputation for been very dangerous. After seeing enough just passing through, Antigua was a very pleasant surprise. The town itself is a national heritage site and is all original buildings and roads. All the streets are cobbled and buildings are colonial. It really was the cutest town I'd ever seen, quite similar to Paraty in Brazil or Colonia in Uruguay. We headed to the Black Cat Hostel on recommendation, dropped our bags then went to explore!

The rest of Antigua was a bit of a whirlwind, Cassie and I had an amazing time with emotional highs and lows! We loved it! After discovering the world's best cafes, cake shops and little bars and restaurants we came across an amazing market and street performers! We realised Antigua was going to be an expensive stay as it was definitely cashing in on the tourist demand and with some prices in coffee shops and restaurants similar to London. This was also when we realised Antigua was going to be full of funny memories. After seeing a typical Guatemalan fire thrower (emphasis on the typical without me realising this at the time) and loudly exclaiming 'It's a child!' worried about the dangers for a young boy with fire then realising it was just a short man, with him looking displeased at me I started to become accustomed to the typical male physique - very small and young looking! After a bit of shopping we headed back and got ready for a day of sight-seeing!

After breakfast, which was included and amazing, we went to the market! This was amazing, not full of the normal souvenir crap but things you actually want and want everyone to have. I did get slightly carried away but it was worth it. Two bags, a hammock and various other things down and with Cassie getting similar ridiculous things, such as a chess set when she cannot even play, we dropped our things off and explored further! On our way back to the hotel we passed various pet shops with the cutest puppies, huskies, beagles, toy poodles and kittens and other animals we finally made it back! We then asked the hostel for their recommendations and hit the tourist attractions hard! After 2 hours of walking around and photo ops we knew the city quite well. The buildings were lovely with churches, archways, central park, an old convent and art gallery. We then headed just out of the city up one of the hillsides that surround the city to the view point. Here we could see the whole of Antigua which was amazing and definitely worth the climb! On our way back we managed to find another 2 markets which seem to be hidden in internal courtyards in each block. We tried on traditional clothing and looked at more things! After a long day we made it back to the hotel just in time to relax before sussing out a free salsa class just a block down from the hotel.

This is where our Antigua experience reached a new level. After signing up for a few private lessons we started the classes. With Cassie, who is pretty tall as it is, having Martin a very short but 'enthusiastic' dancer who used the lesson as a chance to express himself and dance around her kicking his legs, knee ups and ballet twirls it had us in stitches! I, on the other hand, thought I had a normal teacher so was pretty pleased at this point but spent most of it laughing at Cassie and her one man show! After our lessons which highlighted how bad we were but were great fun we got showered and headed for dinner. We went to a restaurant that we had found the previous night where we also got a free glass of wine! Sold! We felt spoilt after the last few weeks on street food sat in a really nice restaurant garden. We took the opportunity to take a few photos, however as we were being particularly un-photogenic and a bit picky we took around, what seemed like, 30 photos! This I realised did probably look to the waiters like the biggest buzz ever off one free glass of house wine! Anyway after an ok photo we gave up and enjoyed the dinner and an extra glass of wine before heading back to the hostel bar for a few more. Here we chatted to some local people, who are all amazing at English (again) and then went with people we bumped into from Utila to another bar. Here we met some British people who were working in Antigua doing Volcano tours and biking tours. After hearing about an all you can drink bar off we went! This ended up rather messy, in particular for Cassie who had just recently recovered from Dengue Fever (where she hadn't eaten a thing for a week!) or drank in a long time!

The next morning was quite fuzzy, in particular for Cassie and she could not make her Salsa lesson. So off I went after breakfast, nice and early for the most turns I have ever, ever done in my life! Alberto, my teacher, was taking the absolute "Michael" after he realised I was a little worse for wear! After heading back to the hostel, Cassie and I headed out to the post office to send home some of our purchases from the market. Although this sounds simple it turned into one of the most stressful experiences I've had to deal with since travelling (as you have probably grasped this does not amount to a high level of stress however it was difficult after a night out and one million turns!). With my package been too big due to my marvellous idea of buying a hammock I was back and forth between the supermarket to get a box big enough, weighing other things to make it worth it and finally the paper shop (twice) to get enough paper to wrap the box in for about 2hours in the end! Bearing in mind I had a volcano hike to start imminently my stress levels were rising as I was not ready, didn't have lunch and was feeling progressively worse as the drunken haze was, by now, well and truly a "slight hangover". So after running back to the hostel with my large backpack (as I'd took my things to send in it) through a city like a mentalist, I made it just in time to sort out my backpack and shove food in my bag to sort on the bus. Luckily Cassie was just as flustered, but once on the minibus we could laugh about the whole rigmarole, the events of the previous night and the fact we were on our way to a volcano hike! Once at Pacaya there was a mass swarm of kids selling sticks for the walk and horses to ride up and down. Despite saying no numerous times they did not get the message and this turned out to be too much for Cassie. Once on the walk it seemed to be a huge pack, with all the horses just walking behind us waiting and watching the weak ones when they were ready to drop behind and give in! So walking amongst the horses, with one nudging me and the kids shouting 'Stick! Stick!' I was finding it funny as the most ridiculous trek. Cassie had stern words as the whole day had just topped her off and the child listened, we then walked to the side and one of the kids started humming and singing random noises in the worst voice ever. This was just too much I couldn't stop laughing and Cassie had to run to the front where no one was. I then 'chatted' (if you can call it that) to a local girl about the area surrounding Antigua where she lived. The trek was pretty steep for around one and a half hours. We then reached the lava fields as it is still an active volcano, it last erupted in 2010. The lava had interesting formations and still steaming in many places. We walked across to an opening and roasted marshmallows on sticks! They were unbelievable after that trek! We then explored some of the formations and after crawling and scrambling around in a Golem-esque manner we started to watch the sun go down and made our way back before dark. The way down was a lot quicker due to the steep rocks and slippery ash! We then got the minibus and made our way back to the hostel.

After a shower I went out with Amy and Sam, people who were in our dorm room. Although very tired it was a Guatemalan bank holiday and the streets were packed and music everywhere so I couldn't miss that! We went out with people from our hostel and to a bar opposite. There was live music and it was packed with students and young professionals from Guatemala City. The Guatemalan youth were very american and european, with lots having blonde colouring too which was a surprise! They were all up for having a good time and the parties went on late into the night. We went to an after-party after eventually finding Rikkis (the bar I was at the night before!) and stayed there till late. In the salsa room I bumped into Cassie's salsa teacher, Martin. So after a little 'dance' if you can call it that and chat with his friends we all headed back.

The next morning, feeling a little tired, I had my breakfast and Cassie and I went for our salsa class. This was fun as usual and just as difficult as a 10am start and lots of more complicated turns to learn! After this we headed to the chocolate museum and the jade museum. We tried chocolate tea which was amazing and lots of different samples! In the jade museum we had a guided tour which as really interesting. Learned about the different types of jade and its importance in the Mayan world. We also got the meaning of our birthday's read. Cassie was a dear and had various other characters. At first the guide told me I was the snail! I was like "oh! Of course" but in the end I was a woodpecker which is a sign of wisdom, independence and leadership apparently so that was quite nice! After those tactical compliments we were nearly persuaded into buying a jade souvenir like complete suckers, but we resisted! I then got some lunch and headed back to the hostel to pack and get things ready for the morning and my final salsa lesson.

Cassie and I then headed to dinner to a little comedor that a girl had recommended on our bus to Antigua. Here we walked through a little corner shop to a back room, or religious shrine, where a few Guatemalans were eating. With no menu I just said 'Soy de vegetariana, no come carne!' and that was the only order. After ordering, the girl and her mother from the bus happened to come in. So we all ate together, which was amazing! I had a traditional special fried rice dish and Cassie had a meat version. The cook was a Guatemalan grandma and was so cute! The food was cheap and filling so we were all happy and then decided to head to a bar for a chilled night. We ended up at 'The Rainbow Cafe' which was lovely and was an open mic night with some really talented musicians. After a fun-filled few days we headed to bed before travelling to Lanquin the next day!

Lanquin and Semuc Champey

With an 8am start we headed to Lanquin, to see the fresh water pools and caves of Semuc Champey. This was a long, long journey in a squashed minibus but we got there in the end after a few stops, picking up local people and waiting for all sorts of random things that would not be acceptable anywhere else but what I've got used too! So a few hours late we arrived at Zephyr Lodge in Lanquin. Lanquin is a small village in the mountains, very traditional just a few shops, comedors, school etc. Heading straight to Zephyr, which we were constantly recommended, we were not disappointed! It was an amazing hostel that apparently Lionel Richie has a share in! It was right in the middle of nowhere, like the whole of Lanquin no ATM, very, very limited basically no internet use and frequent power cuts. But it didn't matter. Surrounded by mountains and a river valley the hostel sat alone with 360 degree view of valley. It had a great bar, restaurant, music, people and showers! The showers were only 3 walls, with the 4th missing facing the view that you just looked over! It was beautiful. So we just chilled here and chatted with people in the hostel finding out there hilarious stories and recommendations!

The next morning we finally managed to get on our way to Semuc Champey tour, after a confusion of pick up points but that didn't matter! Once there we had another charismatic guide, you could say! We walked together up very step and slippery steps to the Mirrador, that looked out over the water! It was amazing and after the very hot, humid climb we were all very keen to go down and jump in the pools! Once down we spent plenty of time swimming, diving and playing in the water with Cassie's waterproof camera! We then went down 'slides' to different levels. Although it was not a slide it was a slippery waterway of rocks with about 5cm of water which as it turns out only Cassie and I were forced into doing! So with a bruise and a half on one of my butt cheeks I was forced onto the next bigger 'slide'! But as it turns out this was not as bad and pretty good fun! We then had a look in a little cave and explore the different pools that were 350m long! The rocks were pretty slippery though, and many people fell over! After this we headed back for lunch before going to the caves. At this point we were all exhausted but the cheeky-chappy guide was having none of it and rushed us through and straight to the cave! Where we had to take nothing! Luckily one of the girls from the hostel gave me some water shoes as I am a sensitive type and pathetic on rocks without shoes! We walked down to the caves, got given our caving equipment - a little candle - and headed in! The water was freezing and the caves were so dark! They were pretty cool though and we saw lots of bats and different limestone formations. Very soon we had to swim with the candles in the air as the water started to get deeper and deeper. Many people splashed water on the flames and the candles went out getting darker and darker and more toes and hands stubbed as swimming in the dark! We then made it to an underground waterfall. Without much choice I was force to climb up the waterfall with just a rope, nothing tied on and with the full force of the freezing water in my face! There was pre-warning about this section and I had no choice so quickly doing it and sticking my head out the top eventually I pulled myself up into the darkness, luckily two french guys had gone first so I had someone there to point where to step! We then carried on going pretty deep into the cave and swimming on. Once at the end there was a jump into a deep pool which I didn't do as felt a bit uneasy about climbing onto the ledge and if I fell in the middle of a cave which were at some points only one man (or woman) wide and then in the middle of a mountainous jungle! We then went back and luckily there was a sneaky ladder the other side of the waterfall we climbed which our guide had kept secret! We then had to jump down another one, it was like a body sized hole with water flowing through it that we just had to jump down and land into a pool of water below. As I couldn't see through the hole it was a lot scarier before than when you actually did it as the pool was only about 1-2m below! Once through we had our final swim out of the cave with most lights out by now but I managed somehow to keep mine on! Once out we were all a little relieved but all loved it! Some had cut toes and when I was leading the way on the way back a few cut knuckles when swimming into to submerged rocks, but it was definitely worth it!

After this experience we thought it was all over but we were wrong. Final activity of tubing and bridge jump! We all jumped in the rapids further down with rubber rings and floated down the water, after getting stuck in a tree and nearly knocked out which Cassie and the others found hilarious as it was the only obstacle in the whole river, we made it to the end. Here we all got out and then had to jump off a bridge into the river! By this point I had had enough and after how long it took me to jump from the top deck in Utila I realised the people in my group were not ready to wait that long! Some of the group did it then we were finally finished! After an exhausting but an amazing action packed day we were all ready to go back and chill out! Once back in Lanquin we stopped at a little shop to put our clothes on now were we dry before walking to the hostel and somehow ended up been sat down at a table and a lady came out and asked what we would like for dinner. She went out and bought something for us and cooked us a lovely pasta for something so cheap! So after that nice surprise headed back to Zephyr where we bumped into people I had met in Honduras and chatted before getting an early-ish night after out big day!

Flores and Tikal

After another early morning for our next long bus journey we headed out to Flores, a little island in a lake which is close to the ruins of Tikal. Amy and Sam were still with us so all four of us were on the same shuttle. This took up most the day arriving at around 6:30pm we just had dinner and a quick explore of the town as the next morning we were on the 4:30am sunrise tour of the ruins!

Waking nice and early we set off to the ruins nice and early. Here the ruins are in the middle of the jungle! We had a great guide but quite a large group but that didn't really matter in the end. He pointed out all the different monkeys, racoons, different moving plants and a tarantula! Which for some reason I decided to hold just for a photo but due to my screaming the tarantula was jumping on me and the photo was not so much of a success but I did it I guess! I then found out, as I missed the introduction, it had very large fangs and could really hurt you if it wanted! Whoops! After that adventure we explore the ruins which were spectacular. There were temples at various places in the jungle. The tallest one is featured in the Star Wars movie which was pretty cool, we went to the top of it to look out at the ruins rising from the jungle! This again was a long day and once back at the hostel I just caught up on photos, emails and my blog before getting street food and chatting with everyone at the hostel. And again an early night with a 5am bus to catch to Belize! I was finally going to Caye Caulker! After all the recommendations this place was the island I was most excited about, so I was eager to sleep and arrive! Hopefully it will live up to its reputation! After 6 days, 3 on a bus and 3 tours we were ready for a desert island...next stop Belize.