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Dali to Hong Kong- the last days
Just a couple additions to last few updates as have found my notes!!
1. Apparently the Grand Buddha (at Leshan) is called DAFO and has just celebrated 1200th birthday - it's the largest stone carved Buddha in the World.
2. Emeishan is one of the four Buddhist mountains in the Middle Kingdom - there are now only 20 active temples there - one of which we stayed in!
3. Lijiang is the home of the Naxi people - one of the Minority groups in China. The backdrop mountain is called Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
Anyway, from Lijiang we travelled by bus to Dali, home to the Bai minority people, think it was about 3 or 4 hours - bit long but great scenery. The town lies between the Cangshan Mountains and Erhai Lake .....although we stayed 2 nights arriving late in the afternoon gave us only 1 day to explore.
We chose a day trip which turned out to be a packed 10 hours but definitely worth the early start. Firstly we drove out of Dali to one of the many small villages around the lake ......ate Babas (??) for breakfast cooked on the street, then it was on for a wander through a food market and a traditional old house where we were shown how they make cheese. A couple of the group had a go but I think it was much harder than it looked - and certainly didn't taste anything like cheddar! In another village we had a Tea ceremony ....... tasted several different types - all are good for health in one way or another though you need something for the memory as it's difficult to remember which is which let alone how to make it! Tea bags are a definite 'no no' !! In the same place we saw the most surreal show, a mixture of school panto, fashion show and the worst out takes of X Factor auditions, culminating in a boat scene (on water) where the actors nearly took an early bath...great fun. After lunch - lots of fresh vegetables (& meat) - we visited a tye dye factory and then drove on to the lake to watch cormorant fishing, definitely the highlight especially as I'd expected to watch from the shore but as you will see from the pictures we were on a boat ( did have to row it ourselves) next to the fishing boat and even got to hold one for a photo shot!! Our return to the shore was a bit energetic as the more competitive of the group decided to make it into an impromptu Dragon boat race - thankfully Paul had had some recent practise in the Birmingham canals so we won, cheers Woody!! Finally, we got back to Dali and the three pagodas but just missed the sunset photo opportunity. Long day but in time for the first really European food in two months at the Bad Monkey Bar ( run by an Australian... I wonder what his story is) no utensils at all, so pizza was favourite.
We left Dali for Kunming quite early the next morning - another long bus trip, 5 hours this time but again interesting scenery most of the way. We only stayed one night but were not too sad that didn't see much of Kunming - another massive Chinese city and to be honest our over-riding memory is likely to be the noisy construction work (yet another metro) outside our hotel - all night!!
From Kunming we flew to Guilin, Gangxi province - landed during a torrential downpour - though since it was apparently the remnants of the downgraded typhoon that hit the Philippines, we were fortunate. We drove straight on to Yangshuo - a mere 90mins but in the dark with the rain it seemed to take forever!
Back to Paul.....The scenery is very iconic with limestone peaks surrounding us but unfortunately the village(town) is purely designed as a tourist trap, just shops, hostels and restaurants. Still in some ways a good place to relax before leaving for Hong Kong and Vietnam.
Managed to get some laundry done but just like home seem to have two odd socks! How does that happen? Obviously an International phenomenon. Took a trip down the river to an old fishing village, hopefully the photos do the scenery justice. Didn't stop for lunch after watching the locals washing the salad in the river......and learnt my first 10 sequences of Kung Fu from a local Master. He looked every inch like a friendly, slightly chubby, uncle but when he moved it was frightening and his legs were twice as large as mine but he seemed to dance and bend so gracefully. I was more like Kung Fu Panda...but it was great fun and as we did it in the park the locals seemed to find it amusing as well....
I also did an interesting calligraphy class ... Supposed to be an hour but we were there 2 and a half
Catherine did a cookery class - first stop the market to see how/where the locals shop then into the kitchen to prepare/ cook 5 dishes - she says they were delicious and she has the recipe book so I'm looking forward to real Chinese food when we get home! (Catherine says she needs a new Wok and one of those massive knives you'll see in the photos for it to be anything near authentic though).
After our day of classes, it was back to Guilin for the overnight train to Hong Kong and our final day in China.
After years of reading and hearing about Hong Kong I was slightly disappointed on arrival but this could be something to do with the 24 hrs of travel and little sleep. It was strange to go through customs and 'no mans land' between China and Hong Kong as they are now one country. It was almost 4pm by the time we checked in at the hotel so after a quick shower we were off out for farewell dinner and then down to the harbour for a light show. After some of the events we have seen it was a bit tame but the views are definitely iconic. Wandered the night market but much the same as any other and no time to see some of the real sights as we leave in the morning. Still maybe another time?
As with the rest of China building work in Hong Kong continues apace. It must be difficult for the youngsters moving from communism to capitalism as the buildings and technology change quickly but the culture does not - it seems an uneasy fit but I have no doubt that with its massive resources and population, China will be the power house of the future. Although the people are generally very nice there are a few habits that I'll not miss.....such as survival of the fittest attitude, you have to watch the old ladies as they elbow you out of the way, if you don't fill even the smallest space they will be in before you and probably the most annoying. - constant clearing of throats followed by the spitting.....
Saying goodbye to the group was sad but hopefully we will keep in touch, the Aussies had better watch out as we are there soon, and it was strange to be in charge of our own destiny for the first time in five weeks. Let's hope we make it to the airport and Vietnam!
PS Found some scales and have lost 1 stone ( always assuming their accuracy) ....yippee.
PS Just to say Linda & Peter.....as you have probably realised, we didn't go to Guilang - knew it was something beginning with G in South West China! Hope Daniel still enjoying it! Also don't have your email address - maybe you could email us [email protected] sometime?
- comments
Catharine Interesting as always and photos are great too. Looking forward to a Chinese meal in April then! Cx
Pete and Jill Great blog again and some really good photographs. Keep the food ones coming. Recipe book has arrived with other bits so all you now need is that 'big' knife in order to start cooking. More importantly rather than sending home books I want one of those cormorants - fresh fish on tap - absolutely fantastic
Jean and Malcolm MacGregor Hiya Catherine and Paul ... are you in NZ now? If so, here is Nicky Malcolm's email, she and John would love to hear from you. So interested in your blog and your great adventures! Keep the news coming! Nicky Malcolm
Jean MacGregor Not sure you got Nicky's email, so here it is again: Nicky Malcolm