The Steamy South

Yet another flight, albeit a short internal between Delhi and Mumbai (Bombay). What happened to the I don't like flying chap? Still it was very clean and efficient but the heat as we got off was a bit of a shock. It's unseasonably hot (about 40 degrees) even for the locals and the humidity is high, still at least I'm not the only one sweating now. And after six months of no real problems I had to check in with a doctor, who came to the hotel room, to get some anti biotics for....guess what. Still they worked and after a week of vegetables and fish, no meat, milk or eggs, things are back to normal...and looking forward to a big meat meal in Puducherry. The funniest moment for me was when the waiter on the rooftop restaurant, seeing we were very hot, turned on two large portable fans for us...a few minutes later Catherine, in all innocence, remarked how pleasant it was now the wind had picked up.......

As we flew in we could see the slums of Mumbai and on the ground things are not much better. We can't get over the affluence next door to the filth. We stayed on the sea front near to the Gateway to India and the Taj Palace Hotel which is still impressive but the sea is filthy and leaning on the promenade in the morning, with all the people sleeping on the street and in the gutter, and then watching them wash and go to the toilet on the pile of litter that used to be a beach.....

Due to my illness not much planning was done ( and you'll be pleased to note not many photos taken) and so we had to take yet another short flight rather than the train we had hoped, into Kochi (Cochin) further down the East coast. This we hoped would be smaller towns and more beach as we had, had our fill of cities. Fort Kochi where we stayed was the peninsular where the fort used to be, not much left now, but many of the old colonial buildings are still along the front and we had a lovely fish meal with Red Snapper (carefully selected by me from the selection of fresh fish...did I know what I was doing??) and sizzling vegetables. The next morning our landlady cooked Catherine a typical Indian breakfast on the roof, curry and pancake, and then arranged our transport by car to Alappuzha (Alleppey). It's so confusing when the same place may have as many as three names on maps, in books, and signage.

We were met by Thomas, who was looking after our next HomeStay for his friend Matthew, Matthews mother, who did the cooking and their puppy Julie, the first dog we felt we could pet and play with in six months. Thomas was a real help, suggested good places to go and booked everything we wanted. The highlight was the four, turning into five, hour trip along the backwaters in our own private boat which also included coffee with a communist supporter and his eagle on the riverbank, cardamon tea, fruit cake and coconut with our captain's parents in their home and a visit to a local distillery/ drinking den( men only) hidden away in the waterways. They brew a coconut light beer which is served in an old plastic drinks bottle and ferments as you drink it. When first brewed it is quite light in alcohol but I was told it got stronger during the day. You had to release the top every five minutes or leave it off as the bottle would explode due to the fermentation. I drank some in the evening and it was not bad but definitely an acquired taste and left some for the next day. However Thomas thought I had had enough and when I went to get some the next day, just to check on the alcohol level, he had disposed of it...did Catherine have a word??? Of course, this may account for my having to continue the vegetarian diet a little longer.....am sure the Hemsleys won't believe it - I'm a changed man!

We also walked along the sand and watched the sunset along with hundreds of locals and Indian tourists who appear to promenade every evening along the beach. It seemed to be the thing to do everywhere there was a beach. After being sensible for so long and not using the tuk tuks, or auto-rickshaws as they call them here (basically mad motorised bike taxis) we seemed to go everywhere in them, even went to the other main swimming beach in one, about 14 km away. Great waves but the drag was so strong you couldn't go very far out. The trips at night with no lighting either on the street or the vehicles, well.... Despite the heat and mosquitos, a very enjoyable three days and a sad farewell as we departed for our first train trip in India ...at last.

We expected it to be late, and it was by 45 min, but this gave us time to lug our bags all the way to one end of the platform where we thought our carriage was, I think at least 800 m, only to be told it was the other end.....our carriage had windows and A/C, a must with the heat. We were the only Westerners on the train again...but a real experience...with the constant movement of people and the coffee, chai and samosa sellers who ply their trade non stop through the carriages making up for the lack of a restaurant car. Five hours later and a very wet bottom, (from the plastic seats I should add) we arrived in Triruvananthapuram...try saying that..and another negotiation for a taxi to Kovalam. I really don't like the bargaining system as I'm no good at it.

Lighthouse beach is a really pretty little cove and very touristy but good for a short stop and cool down in the waves. As it was one night and we wouldn't need much we went cheap on the accomodation and no A/C. What a mistake...I had to take a towel to bed and sleep evaded me till about 4 am even with the fan on turbine level and all the windows open....No such trouble for Catherine!

The hotel owner did arrange a taxi for us to Kanyakumari, a two hour trip, at an extortionate rate of course, but as it turned out he earned his money. Friday was some sort of election rally day and the two lane road was packed...I say two lanes, one in each direction, but as traffic ground to a halt more lanes formed until it was five lanes all heading in one direction...at this point we got a little worried as we had allowed three hours for the trip...but our driver headed off into the unknown down some very dubious tracks, asking directions at each village and at one point taking a guide with us for about half an hour. Although it was at breakneck speed with some hair raising moments( I think he was worried about the time as well) we got to see so much off the normal road and still arrived with a few minutes to spare.

Now on the sleeper heading for Puducherry...it's so peaceful with a very empty carriage and a nice attendant and of course A/C. I really have enjoyed the trains and being being able to hang out of the door as the train is travelling is a real bonus. Quite amusing to see people getting on and off, with luggage, as it is moving too.....

Arrived in Pondy(as the locals call it) at 5.30am and along with all our bags, which meant I hung out the side, had the most terrifying tuk tuk ride of our travels, to the hotel, all the time hoping they would let us in before 12. (Catherine says she didn't think we'd even arrive alive and just spent the whole journey praying that the rest of the town wouldn't be as derelict or stink as much as the roads we took). In the end the hotel was great and we got straight into our room for a shower and rest, we felt very fortunate..

Catherine's prayers were answered as Pondy turned out to be one of the nicer towns. It still has many of the French buildings and the promenade which is packed with locals first thing in the morning ( 6am for the sunrise) and in the evening. We ate, still not feeling like much meat, and rested in between shopping trips. As you might expect the cooking is noticeably better here and Yes...now we are on the last leg I have let Catherine loose on the shops and even bought another bag to put it in. In hindsight I do regret not letting her buy some bits in each country but packing and carrying it would have been an issue....

Not so much noticeable squalor here but watched three older ladies with a very small hammer and chisel digging up ( destroying) some of the rare good bits of road to fill up ( block) the drainage channel at the side of the road in front of their house.....I still cannot understand why?? It was the Main Street....incredible....

Cows in the street, dogs and crows everywhere and rounding one corner by a temple even an elephant...

To get to Chennai we decided to try our luck with the coaches.....we were told that no booking was needed so took a tuk tuk.to the 'stop' - a rubbish bin by the side of a very busy road.....so, no ticket, no bus stop, no signs and no English spoken...and you wonder why there was some stress especially as the time of arrival came and went, Still, in the end it was fine - bus arrived.....looking like the picture we had seen online & no ticket, no problem.......I shoved some money in the his direction, which he promptly put in his pocket, no ticket issued and welcomed us on board. We sat at the front behind the driver and there was a curtain across so I couldn't see out but there was a gap in it on Catherine's side and she informs me that the ride was even more dangerous than the tuk tuk......I was tired!

Chennai is massive, another Mumbai and very hot so we spent a fair bit of time in the hotel beside a roof top pool but with a foray to the Fort area and an unsolicited tour of various points of interest on the way back courtesy of Johney...the tuk tuk driver. The last afternoon, in a fit of unparalleled vigour (and possible stupidity in the scorching heat), we walked the streets for a few hours soaking in the atmosphere for the last time. By our return my shirt was soaking and Catherine's patience with tuk tuk drivers running her over in an attempt to ask me if we wanted a lift had run out.....they weren't even going the right direction...

India a vast country, very different in each state, with incredible people, cultures, palaces, forts, temples, waterways and wildlife but also swamped by poverty, pollution, vehicles, noise and rubbish....such contrast is not easy on the mind....

Next stop Qatar......