Sayonara Japan.

Our few days in Hagi which was a luxury retreat were fantastic, and I pretended they were Catherine's birthday present....no I haven't got any better! Hiroshima was more sombre as we soaked up the history and aftermath of the A-bomb. The monuments and museum were very well presented and they are very open about the causes and their responsibility in the war...a big difference from Russia. The castle was great and Catherine as you will see, enjoyed the dressing up...we also spent a fantastic morning in a small garden near to the hotel.

Then to the iconic island of Miyajima and the floating shrine. Deer everywhere and it seems that every school class in Japan, and from elsewhere, has their year book pictures taken here...it was some conveyor belt process. Fantastic views of the island from the mountain tops. I will admit we took the free bus and two cable cars rather than walk, one of the benefits of getting older. But we did travel down with a young local who had cycled one and half hours from Hiroshima City to the ferry walked up and still had the cycle back home. He did look hot and was sweating which made me feel better as I was sweating from just taking the photos... Lovely private baths, a big tub each for me and Catherine at the end of the day -was perfect.

Our last trip was to Osaka and maybe everyone's typical vision of Japan. Neon lights, busy streets, shops galore ( I had difficulty restraining Catherine, I think not being able to buy little souvenirs may be our one regret going on such a long holiday???whoops adventure) and street entertainment. It was perfect timing to recover ready for the next part of the journey. We did the washing, played some scrabble ( not going so well 7-3 to Catherine...I'm obviously conscentrating on organising the trip) wandered the streets enjoying the atmosphere and rested. We did find some lovely plum liqueur for the evenings.

So after just over three weeks in Japan how would we sum it up? (this isn't a short summation!)

People have said it is expensive and we did not do the backpackers version (except for K's House, which was brilliant) so our costs similar to any major European city prices....however in reality because they are so clean, polite and honest even the cheapest accomodation and food is actually very good so I would recommend Japan to anyone.

The variety of buildings from low rise timber to the most modern and towering skyscrapers all mixed together( I wonder if they have planning laws?). Historic buildings have suffered, not only due to the last war but the fact that most are timber and so need renovating due to natural causes (so many have been rebuilt recently) but they are so different and well worth the visit. You know you are in Japan when you see the roofs and you see how close they live together. The food has been interesting....most has actually been very tasty, it's just that each meal is anticipated with some trepidation...will we order the right thing, will we use the correct utensils, will we eat it in the right order with the right condiments, will we resist using the hot towel to wipe our faces? However not a single problem in the tummy department the whole trip. Anyway (just for Gail) the toilets, including public ones which are everywhere, are the best I have ever encountered anywhere in the world.

The scenery is fantastic, think Lake District and Scotland, and the gardens are even better. The transit systems are easier to navigate than at home, cheaper, cleaner and above all on time. And the people......I had a preconception which was in many ways wrong. They are very self contained and formal but so friendly, naturally happy, helpful and keen to talk, especially if you are from England. I learnt the Japanese word for delicious and that went down a storm every time. At the last restaurant they gave Catherine a huge bottle of hand sanitiser as a leaving gift...when you see how clean they like to be you will realise this was a good present. I do recommend not getting into a bowing contest with them ( how low can you go), they would win every time, the conductor on the train bows before leaving the carriage.

It has been a real pleasure and now after at least 32 trains, 17 hotels, 4 Ferries and a water bus, 4 metro systems and a fair bit of walking, we look forward to China.

Ps. WiFi may not be so easy in China so please excuse us if the updates are not as frequent.

A few notes from Catherine:

- Sorry there are more photos of me & only a few of Paul.....if I do get hold of the camera he deletes my efforts!

- As Paul says, they are so helpful - had one funny conversation in chemist when I was trying to ask girl about waxing (legs!) in Japan - she thought about it then said "I recommend this ....a razor....as wax will really, really hurt!" Was really warming to her until she then wanted to direct me to the make-up saying, " you need cosmetics?". Am definitely different here, apart from being a foot taller (& a bit wider) than most, all the women wear make-up. Not much grey hair either - they either colour hair regularly (men too) or maybe it's just in the Japanese genes!

- Loved all the things Paul mentioned above plus: 'English' menus - headings in English the rest in Japanese; serious business advertised by children's songs & life sized furry creatures just like cartoons; drinks vending machines on every corner, even in the villages; no litter; polite queuing and surprisingly quiet, considering every other person has mobile in hand - all on silent!