To the East and beyond...

After a brief stop in Cairns – it felt extremely strange to be back in the place we had started our east coast Australia adventure, knowing how much ground we had covered since our last visit! We were pleased that our return visit meant we could visit the “Best Falafels in Australia” cafe again, or rather its official name “The Holy Land”. After a scrumptious dinner and walk along the esplanade, for old times sake, it was early to bed, ready for the long journey ahead.

After a slight detour, via the Australian post office (to post yet another parcel back home – anything that will lighten our load for the south east asia escapade) it was straight to Cairns airport for our flight to Singapore (annoyingly via Darwin). It would be an understatement to say we were shocked at how poor the international terminal was! This came a close second to LAX (only because expectations for LAX were somewhat higher). With the choice of 1 cafe and 1 fast food joint, we certainly weren’t spoilt for choice for a pre-fllight meal! (As it turns out....we didn’t even manage to get food, as the ‘fast’ food joint was the complete antithesis of anything resembling ‘fast’...and we had to demand a refund on receipt of our cold/late food that arrived after the final call for our boarding gate! )

All in all, a fairly pleasant flight. We definitely aren’t fans of flights that go ‘via’ other places – we now have our own theory that this is just a money making scheme, to bring in business for the shops/cafes situated in the boarding gate you are held in! (This can be likened to the stops you encounter on Greyhound bus journeys in Australia – greyhound passengers are the ONLY customers these cafes have. ..oh and the cafes don’t put prices on anything. Its just a complete free-for-all in a competition-less market! Anyway, enough of the ranting)

So, onto the exciting bit! We arrive in Singapore airport, unsurprised to find it spotless, well maintained and manned by friendly staff! There is a generous scattering of Free Internet terminals dotted around the airport, then when we reach the MRT (Mass railway transit) station we are 1) asked if we need change. 2) handed a bag of change for the ticket machines. 3) given a map of the network. 4) shown how to use the ticket machine and 5)directed to the correct platform! And all this, with a big smile. We could definitely get used to this.

After a few changes along the way, we eventually reach Little India, our residence for the next 5 days. Looking particularly tourist like, with lonely planet book and map in hand, trying to decipher which station exit to take , a young American-chinese woman latches onto us (or takes pity? She has visited Singapore numerous times before) as it seems we are heading in the same direction. Its nice to have some company en route, especially from someone who is vaguely familiar with these surroundings, as it is now night time and somewhat dark in the area!

On arriving at our hostel, we are pleasantly surprised. With bright clean decor and a super-friendly girl on reception, we soon feel at ease. Its almost time to bid this day of travel goodnight, but not until we have some food in our bellies. Fortunately, just a stones throw away there is a great little Indian (well, it is little india) cafe/restaurant – full of local people, always a good sign. Rubba dub dub, thanks for the grub...and we’re off to bed. Tomorrow we will explore!

Shop shop shopping...Singapore style
So, before the exploration can begin, we have one small but very important issue to address. As previously mentioned in our blog about new years eve in Sydney, you may remember that our camera had an unfortunate encounter with a pint of beer. It would seem beer and cameras really don’t mix well at all, and ours has now gone to camera heaven. Not wanting to miss out on capturing the magnificent sights of Singapore, we set ourselves the task of replacing the device. First stop – The renowned shopping area – Orchard Road. Time to get our haggling hats on!

Well, its like throwing meat to the lions den. Andy and I are definitely the meat, the shop assistants know how to roar. After getting over the initial shock of being pounced on each time we pass by a shop, we soon get into the swing of things. We become particularly good at looking shocked/surprised/even DESGUSTED at the prices they try and tell us, oh and never underestimate the power of walking away – it just drives them crazy! In fact, id even go as far as to say, it was a little bit fun! However, despite this it was also extremely tiring and all we really wanted to do was get outside and start seeing the real Singapore! We eventually managed to get (what we think is) a good deal and hot foot it out of the shop! First rule of haggling – don’t check any more prices after you purchase, it really isn’t going to make you feel very good to find out you DIDNT get a good price at all. Ignorance is bliss and all that!

Before we could venture onwards, it was time to refuel. We stopped at a small outdoor eating stall selling yummy Chinese food! (It would have been perfect, except for the persistent pigeon who was intent on getting some of our roast duck. It just seems wrong, bird eating bird?) Anyways, we spent the rest of the day exploring Bugis village flea market - hundreds of little stalls under shelter, selling everything you could possibly imagine! Good fun to wander around, if not a little confusing. After passing the same t shirt 4 times we realised, yes we’re just going in circles! This is where Andy discovered the most delicious banana smoothies!

Our evening entailed a tourist must do....Singapore Sling cocktails at Raffles Hotel, named after Singapore’s founder – Sir Stanford Raffles. Opening on the 1st September 1887, the hotel began with a mere 10 room bungalow! In 1987 it was declared a national monument . We wondered if the hotel would live up to all the hype that surrounds it, we can safely say...it does. The building is just stunning, the Long Bar where we had our cocktails felt so regal, you could just imagine all the generations that have passed, sitting, drinking in the same room, snacking on monkey nuts and discarding the shells on the floor!

Sentosa Island was our next destination of choice. Once this was a small fishing village named Pulau Blakang Mati. It then became a British military fortress, until being handed back to the Singapore government in 1967. The following year saw the beginning of development work, wherein the island was turned into a holiday resort. To involve the public in the process, they were invited to suggest names for the island and eventually ‘Sentosa’ was chosen, Malay for “peace and tranquillity”.

Sentosa Island is now a premier resort getaway, just 15 minutes from the city....We have come to liken it to Disney land. You almost feel like congratulating the creators of it on their “authentic looking trees...and grass....and plants....” Somehow the whole island just doesn’t look quite....real. This is partly due to the man made beaches that line most of the coast, their lack of authenticity given away by the sandpaper-like texture you experience when walking upon it. Everywhere on the island seems to be aimed at “having fun” and keeping people amused, a bit of fantasty land come theme park come film set. In the coming months they will definitely have achieved this with the opening of a universal studios and huge expanded resorts complex! It was great fun for a half day excursion. We had our first taste of 4D tv – just plain bizarre. Armed with our stylish 3d glasses, we also endured water being squirted, our hair blowing in the wind and ankles being nipped (by the crabs in the film of course) We also walked across a brilliant suspension bridge to the Southern Most Point of continental Asia! We finished off our day of make-believe with a delicious Indian curry meal in a “banana leaf” restaurant. Who needs plates when you have leaves!

Our final few days in Singapore saw us exploring Chinatown, whereupon we stumbled across a stunning Buddhist Temple during prayer time. It was so utterly entrancing listening to the monks chanting their prayers, and people coming in from the streets to participate. The architecture of the temple was beautiful, it is difficult to imagine how many hours of work it would take to create such a structure! We managed to find a hawker centre to have lunch in, followed up by the best deep fried banana dessert! Before heading back to the hostel we walked along the infamous Arab Street, renowned for all its beautiful shops selling gorgeous Sari’s and fabrics. Every possible colour of the rainbow!
In the evening we visited Clarke Quay, down at the Singapore River. Previously the centre of commerce in the late 19th century it is now a hive of activity full of restaurants, bars and clubs. Our highlight of the evening was visiting “The Clinic” bar, complete with hospital furniture and drinks served in drips! It definitely goes down as one of our most bizarre drinking experiences!

Our final day in Singapore was a mixed bag! Andy met up with Henry, a Singaporean guy we had met in Cairns, who studies in Australia. He took Andy for lunch in a Malay area where his parents live and treated him to some delicious traditional dishes. It is here Andy establishes his new favourite tipple – “Teh Tarik”, comprised of black tea and condensed milk. Similar to HK tea – Im sure he will be indulging in that in a couple of months time! Our final excursion saw us visiting Boat Quay, further along the Singapore River. Along the banks of the river, several sculptures depict the activities that took place in the late 19th and early 20th century, namely the work of merchants from various parts of the world. The city nightscape is stunning with all the brightly lit buildings and bridges that cross over the river.

Singapore has been fantastic! We have been surprised at how much we have loved it, not because we particularly thought we wouldn’t, but rather we just expected it to be “another city”. We’ve been impressed at how well the infrastructure is maintained, in particular the MRT system is so straightforward, logical and economical to use. Also, the people we have encountered have been so friendly and helpful and the population is so diverse and cosmopolitan! Lastly, the food has been Delicious! A sure winner for us two food lovers.
Now for somewhere completely different...What will Bangkok have to offer? More importantly, its time for Andy to join the “i have to tick the next box” brigade. The big 26 beckons!