We really had no idea on which way to head home from Eighty Mile Beach, everywhere was so busy and places along the coast that we thought to visit were said to be packed. In the end we chose to head back the inland way, this would require retracing some of our previous route.

On the way up we had missed Carawine Gorge because we were told it was packed. We thought we would take our chances and check it out, if it was packed we could always visit Running Waters again. As it turned out, we were in luck and there were only around twelve camps along the river and we were able to get ourselves a grassed patch overlooking waters with reeds in it, meaning there was more bird life, but also more bugs at night. We stayed for two nights before heading into Nullagine to the excellent caravan park and pub for dinner.

Then it was down to Newman, not one of our favourite towns, but we wanted to visit Kalgan Pool, we had missed it on the way up and a number of people had told us it was worth visiting. To visit Kalgan though, you need a permit which is available at the visitors centre, this is because it is on a mining companies lease.

The road into Kalgan Pool was very rough for quite some distance before it enters the Kalgan River. This was a surprise as the river was flowing quite fast and clear, it also required us fording the river a number of times. It was only about 500mm deep, but I wasn't keen on doing too many times due to water getting into wheel bearings etc. So we found a spot to camp next to one of the crossings and set up for the night. While there, a man and his son came walking along and in our conversation he said that the water was due to a mine pumping out water and dumping it into the river, otherwise it would be dry. That was crazy, though it did make for a lovely river with reeds and birds, etc.

We only stayed one night before heading to one of our favourite spots, Bamboo Springs. We had stopped here on the way up and stayed for two nights. This time we planned on staying for three, if we had it to ourselves and we were in luck. We had two very peaceful days at Bamboo Springs, warm nights and sunny days, it was bliss.

We had been told we must visit Kalbarri and the new Skywalk on our return, so that was our goal. On the way though we stopped in at Glenburgh Station, a working cattle station the size of Luxembourg. Here they have nice campsites along a normally dry river, but due to recent rain there was a little water in it. They also have self guided drives to some sites on the station, these include rock formations and river pools, all worthwhile.

From the station we followed major dirt roads all the way to Kalbarri. As we had had no phone reception for nearly a week we weren't able to book ahead, so took our chances. There are five campgrounds in Kalbarri, we contacted four on arrival and all four where booked out, though one said they had room in the 'overflow' camping, no power, just some dirt and trees. It cost us $35 a night, but we had no choice.

We had plans of having a lovely meal out that night, but everywhere we went or called was booked out, in the end we managed to get one of the last remaining tables in the pub! Fortunately it was a nice meal for a reasonable price.

The next day we did the tourist thing and visited the Skywalk, Natures Window, Z Bend and Hawks Head. The Skywalk had only just opened earlier this year and it was packed with people. But giving credit where credit is due, the authorities have done a great job of making something that fits in and caters to large numbers, and I must say that the majority of visitors were doing the right thing, so it was a very enjoyable experience.

On the walk to Natures Window we made the comment that we have never been on a walk with so many people, not even in America! It was packed, but again, people were doing the right thing, so again it was enjoyable.

After our busy day of sightseeing we were able to get dinner in one of the restaurants that night. When we went to bed this night, the clouds were coming over and the wind was picking up, and sure enough through the night the rain and winds came in, we were glad to be in our van. In the morning it had cleared, but it was now very cool and the forecast was for more wind with showers.