After a long day of travelling and hanging about, we finally got to Memphis and went straight to bed (not even the lights of Beale Street could entice us out).
The following day we missed breakfast but were given a handful of svenhard cheese horns (no really) to start the day which were as ropey as they sound and not actually cheesy at all. We set out in search of Graceland only to be distracted by breakfast. We hunted out Arcade (as seen on Man v Food now renamed Mike v Food) which is the oldest active cafe in Memphis (est. 1919). Very tasty but do not see the pancake thing (once a year, thin, definitely no syrup) but we came, we saw, we ate and Mike bought the t-shirt. From there we headed to the National Civil Rights Museum where we unexpectedly spent the rest of the day till we were thrown out around 5pm. From the outside it still looks like the Lorraine Motel as it would have looked when Martin Luther King was assassinated there. The hotel room remains as it was and you literally stand feet from the balcony where it took place. It was a moving experience especially after reading all about the Civil Rights Movement.
That night we went onto Beale Street to hear the blues. An awesome night - quite accidentally we wandered into a bar where 1 of the Beale Street musicians was celebrating his birthday with all the other blues musicians that play on Beale Street. They were all just jamming together taking it in turns to sing or play. They were amazing - happy accident, couldn't have planned it ever!
The second day was our second attempt to get to Graceland further hindered by it being the day after the night before. Before we got too far we discovered that Graceland is closed on Tuesday's. Doh. So we wandered round (it was absolutely freezing) doing the tourist thing. But it was not cold enough to keep us from going back to Beale Street via Ribs @ Rendevous (apparently the law when in Memphis, another Man v food destination but actually very disappointing). Beale Street made amends as we watched Chris McDaniels and the Blues Masters perform the night away - very cool and a really nice bloke to boot. We came, we heard and we bought the CD.
The next day it snowed and brought Memphis grinding to a halt. But we did get to Sun Studios, got to stand on the spot where Elvis stood to record his first single and touch and pose with the microphone he actually used. Very cool. Next stop - Graceland except that due to the snow, it closed while we were en route so we were dropped back in town. Even too cold for Beale Street so we mooched about the hotel.
At this point we were supposed to move on but all Greyhounds were cancelled, the snow was still thick and we still hadn't been to Graceland (closed) so we were staying put. So, when all else fails, head back to Beale Street - another cracking night, not so good the morning after.
But the morning after, our last day in Memphis, we made it to Graceland. Graceland was quite humble actually considering his status (aside from 2 planes, multiple prestige cars, hundreds of gold and platinum records and a large collection of jumpsuits). He comes across as a really decent and grounded person. Sad really what happened.
Memphis is not as pretty as New Orleans or many of the other places we've visited but it is special. It comes alive in the evening - the blues artists are really talented and uber-cool. It's also important to make special mention of the Peabody Ducks who splash in the fountain of the Peabody Hotel from 11am to 5pm everyday at which points they make their grand entrance and exit via a red carpet. Next stop from Memphis - Little Rock, Arkansas.

Kelly and Mike