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You'll remember the French song "Sur le Pont d’Avignon" perhaps. And if you're like me, that first chorus line is all you'll remember about it. So, let's bridge the gap a bit...
Avignon has something like three bridges, but the one referred to in the song is St Benezet's. Depending on which scholarly works you go to (e.g Wikipedia, Google...) Benezet was a child prodigy who, after a vision from God (who arranged angels to take care of his sheep for the duration) designed and oversaw construction of the bridge from the age of twelve. Or not.
Either way, there's no disputing it dates back to the 12th Century, but - as I've mentioned in these blogs before - today it spans only the centuries and not the river. That's because the very last bit of it that would have reached the other side of the river has disappeared, so the bridge falls somewhat short of the other shore. Otherwise the song could have been, "En travers le Pont d'Avignon", but syllablicly (if there is such a word) that doesn't work. Anyway, the point is that as a result of the Pont d'Avignon failing to reach its destination, you can only ever be On the bridge of Avignon and not Crossing it.
This however doesn't stop the tourism people charging you for the privilege (so much for liberty, equality and fraternity). On my exploring Avignon after Liz had taken the train back to the UK to spend half term with Yasmin, I therefore avoided being "sur le pont" and instead simply took photos "du pont" from a castle tower high above.
In the song, there are two lines (in a variation anyway) that say:
Les jeunes filles font comme ça
Les jeunes gens font comme ça
(The young girls go like this,
The young people go like this)
What's lacking is instruction in exactly how they go, but given that you have to pay to access the bridge I have a fairly good idea.
Having said all that, the bridge is attractive to look at, lovely to sail around (as we did last week) and - if it really is the work of a twelve-year-old - is an awesome piece of engineering and design, for which a sainthood would be well-deserved.
So there you have it: the story of the Pont d'Avignon - complete and unabridged.
Beatification should also be considered for Edgar... the bus company that plies between Beaucaire (where the boat is currently moored) and Avignon, because this reasonably attractive 40-minute journey costs just €3, excellent value for what is an approximately 30 kilometre distance.
And Avignon itself is nice, especially the old walled town part of it. To the north of the central city is an extensive pedestrian area - though as with other pedestrian city areas in France this also tends to be full of the more expensive shops. Still, the streets are charming, and pleasant to stroll around.
Up the top of the hill towards the river - from where I got my shots of St Benezet's bridge - is a gorgeous public garden, with lake, fountains, waterfalls, statues and walkways. Even better, there's a lakeside cafe where you can get glasses of wine - and I mean generous glasses nine-tenths full - for just €2.50 (NZ$5), the best value in any restaurant to date. On the other hand their Quiche Lorraine is awful, but so is much of the general food in French cafes... as whinged about previously in these blogs. At least the good-value wine helps erase the taste of the poor-value food!
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David Sur le Plonk D'Avignon, L'on est dancer, L'on est (hic)