After an unbelievably good nights sleep we joined Charlie and Hattie for a rather underwhelming breakfast where we avoided the chicken soup and chilli fish which looked as though it had been left out from the night before. We constructed a long To-Do list and started with the easy job of restocking our wallets from an ATM. It proved slightly more challenging than we had hoped but we finally persuaded the third machine to liberate some cash and Charlie struck gold...

We were woken early by a cataclysmic roll of thunder which sounded like a lorry smashing into the side of the guesthouse. The sound of steady rain followed and we were very glad that we weren't under canvas, though it did rather scupper our plans of having a day on the beach! It was blissful lying in a comfortable bed without the feeling that we had to be on the move but the noises associated with being surrounded by civilisation meant that we were soon on the h...

Our last day in the parks started early and we were driving out of our impromptu campsite just after the sun started its long skyward journey. We opted to head east to try and pick up a game circuit by the Grumetti, finally confident of where we were on the map. After an hour of fruitless hunting we ended up in the middle of breakfast in a very posh tented camp. The security guards pointed us in the direction where we categorically knew there were no trails so we...

The night was noisy and the background hubbub created by the wildebeest was occasionally punctuated with cackling screams from the groups of hyaenas who we had seen before going to bed. Their sudden high pitched wails were blood curdling and made for somewhat disturbed nights sleep. We were awake as soon as it began to get light, greeted by the same background level of noise, and I looked out over the incredible sea of mammals which covered the ground as far as ...

The sunrise woke us at around 630 and we enjoyed a breakfast of fried eggs and baked beans whilst discussing the nocturnal cacophony of lions, hyaenas and cicadas which had punctuated our restless sleep. We were soon packed up and headed off towards the Grumetti river circuit where we hoped to track down the migration that Bob had spotted the day before. The early morning sunlight filtered between the clouds and we passed groups of Cokes Hart antelope and Topi as...