Hi friend(s) I have escaped the hot, dry and dusty desert of Rajasthan to the cool, misty and fairly wet hill towns of Dalhousie and McLeod Ganj. Remnants of the old empire abound, but I havent yet donned smart casuals, umbrella and newspaper for my tour of the realm. In the past 2 weeks I have been templed, forted and palaced out. Jaisalmer, Bikaner and Amritsar all offered beautiful and ornate remnants of and dedication to past rulers and everlasting deities of all faiths. Amritsar and the Golden Temple (the home of Sikhism) was a special highlight - a real working living centre for paying homage. Less spectacular but still devoutly attended was the Kali Mata temple, or rat and pidgeon temple, wandering barefoot around the droppings looking for an auspicious white rat (to no avail). The Ram Devra pilgrimage does not have the free loving drinking and partying atmosphere of Glastonbury, but its the getting there that counts: Duration: Aug to Oct Required: Flag (the bigger the better), stamina Optional: Footwear, spare clothes, drinking vessel, transport - most walk from up to 300 miles away, some roll along the way - bikes and motorbikes also possible Provided: Free food stops, occasional scrub trees for shade and sleep in 95 deg.heat What is there to see: Lake for washing clothes and self, temple with offerings Recommended: Transport for return leg home (heavily subsribed, bus roofs are popular), foot plasters Not recommended: Excessive alcohol (dehydration likely) Now Im preparing myself with you all back home for a further 5 days of pleasure and/or anguish starting tomorrow. If I can drum up any support (sure the Ossies will come out of the woodwork soon, but so far this place is more like another Israelis state) theyll show the test on the local cinemas big screen! Cooomon England!