After a slow morning we found a good cafe opposite the theatre for coffee. While we were waiting for ours to be made a man ordered tea with five sugars and the owner made him pay extra. When he asked me if I wanted sugar I laughingly told him I wanted five. He was a little surprised to find I'd followed the conversations.

We returned to tourist mode and did the excellent tour of the Co- Cathedral, St John's with the audio tape, recommended on Sunday by cousin Joe. (M: I think constant exposure to the Baroque has improved my appreciation of the " too much is never enough" school of design. If ever there was a case of Baroque abundance it's St John's! It has undergone massive restoration in recent years and is truly a wonder to behold. There were some before and after videos on show, demonstrating just how big a transformation there has been. ) The famous Caravaggio painting- "The Beheading of John the Baptist" is located here. The painter was on the run for murder and found a refuge in Malta but involved himself in yet another brawl( slow learner?!), and was imprisoned in Fort St Angelo which we can see from our apartment! The fort was also used to film parts of "Game of Thrones".

M: while Anne opted for the quiet life, I was keen to take the ferry across to Birgu, on the other side of the harbour, and have a poke around there. We had been watching the half hourly service from our balcony for the last several days. And it was another glorious day to be outside. So, I descended from our eyrie to sea level, and followed signs to the ferry wharf, but before getting to it discovered that for the princely sum of two Euro, I could get a ride on a traditional dhhajsa, pronounced dice-a. No brainer, so I joined three or four others for the 10 minute crossing. A lovely way to see the Harbour as generations have done in the past on these small boats. Note for next time - hire one for a tour of the Harbour. I got off in front of the Church at Birgu, one of the three cities, and then followed the waterfront to my left as far as Fort St Angelo. Then cut behind the fort and along the water's edge to Kalkara before turning back. On return to Birgu, the only ferry man said we'd have to wait for a few others if I wanted the 2 Euro deal, or pay 4 and we could go now. Again, no brainer. Off Alfredo and I went. During the trip he declared that even if my mother was Scottish, I was still Maltese, that the Africans and Arabs were the source of Malta's problems, and that he had been to Australia and he didn't like it. A full - and at times X rated- state of the nation.

I got back just in time to see the four o'clock Salute. I'm very pleased with the picture I got so I've used it as the cover.

A: We decided to have a really good final meal here and walked up the steps and around the corner to Dimitri's- listed as the second best in Valetta on Tripadvisor Even better it was about 150 metres from our front door. It didn't disappoint and the chef greeted each customer warmly, and dropped by a couple of times. We had two courses. I had spinach lasagna and bream. The vegetables came separately as in Italy and were delicious. (M:I'd give them 5 for service and 4 for food quality. Good but not special). Ask Anne sometime about the Russian woman sitting near her who spoke loudly and often with her mouth full! )

We prepared for our exit from this amazing place in the morning but we don't have an early start and will book a taxi for 11 .30 to the airport.