M: The day dawned fine, and there was that stupendous view again. I don't see how one could ever tire of it.

We were going to catch up with my cousin Marthese at 7 for dinner, so the day was ours, and we already had plans. First breakfast - made possible by the thoughtfulness of our host who provided some milk, cereal, bread ,marmalade and tea and coffee. Then shopping at one of only two reasonably sized produce shops in Valletta - but both are ridiculously overpriced. This venerable establishment, known as The Wembley doesn't even sell milk! First and last time. There is actually nothing in walking distance that would even qualify as a mini market. A bit of a challenge.

Next we hit the streets to reacquaint ourselves with this ancient city. It was quickly becoming clear that Malta has had a major spring clean since our last visit. Fortresses and streets and other buildings have been cleaned and repaired. New buildings have sprung up. Roads are smoother. And there was evidence of an impending celebration in Malta - which we were to discover was the commemoration of Paul's shipwreck on Malta, and with it the coming of Christianity. We had only missed the week long inauguration of the year as cultural capital by a few days, but the signs of the injection of European funds were everywhere.

Fortune had smiled on us again in the form of having us arrive on the day of the once a month changing of the guard at the presidential palace. The Queen has been replaced by a president, and the Kingsway by Republic Street, but the ritual of Guard changing was every bit Empire!

As we waited we watched groups of uniformed school children with worksheets arrive. A rather stuffy looking officer even found time to answer some of their questions. The band arrived (and excellent they were!) then the new guard assembled, the old guard emerged from the palace, the sergeants exchanged secret handshakes, the troops changed places, then we had a lovely display of drill and musicianship from the band before it too marched off.

This was followed by morning tea in the newly opened market complex, on the site of the old open air markets. Trendy and a bit overpriced but did the job, even if I couldn't get a pastizzi. That had to wait for a shop on the walk to our next destination.

Next stop, again in an accident of scheduling, was a baroque concert in the Church of Our Lady of Victories, itself newly restored to its early magnificence. A well known guitarist called Simon Schembri performed a series of Scarlatti sonatas, and we got the last two seats available. I confess that while I was in awe of Schembri's skill, Scarlatti didn't get the pulse racing. I enjoyed the Bach encore more.

By now we were more than ready for lunch, so ambled the short distance "home" to catch up with ourselves. After that, I went out for a long solo ramble just soaking in the sights - old and new, including the new Parliament buildings designed by Enzo Piano on the site of the old city gates. I came away an admirer of the way the new was able to speak to the old so easily without making any design concessions.

Before we knew it, Marthese was at the door. We spent an hour or so drinking a Maltese Syrah with cheese and biscuits then set off for a walk to the Waterfront - an area we hadn't visited before - where we dined at one of the many waterside places.

It was good catching up with all the news of the cousins. Marthese's three girls are doing well, and she continues to work at the same place as she has for many years, while now hosting Italian English students in her home from time to time.

I guess we were home about 10 after a very full day.