They say Cartagena de Indias is the most beautiful city in Colombia and I would agree. It is an intoxicating place and was the main Spanish port on the Caribbean coast.
The Spaniards made the old town impregnable to attacks including one by Sir Francis Drake by building walls and forts to surround the whole city which survive to this day. Having roughed it for a few days in hostels I booked into Casa Lola, a colonial house converted by a Madrid architect into a stunning boutique hotel with two small rooftop pools.
I spent an interesting morning at the Palace of the Inquisition which is now a macabre museum displaying many instruments of torture. See photographs.
I also travelled with a group of Brits and Americans to the well-known Lodi el Totumo mud volcano where you bathe in thick mud which is reputed to have health benefits before being washed by elderly ladies in the lake. However it takes a few days to get completely clean.
Another highlight of Cartagena was the Havana Cafe, like something out of the 30's , where a ten piece live band play amazing music.
Now it is onto Cali by plane to head towards Ecuador.