M

They go days saying nothing - and now twice in the same day? Nothing like being on holidays for real to nudge the creative juices.

Keen readers will recall some of my ranting about "the system" early in this blog. Travelling on VIA Rail this morning has forced me to reflect on the absence of a system!

We were due to depart on the 0640 train for Montreal from Toronto. We were notified (a) that it was compulsory to check large luggage; and (b) that we needed to do this an hour before departure ie 0540. Typically we arrived early - the cab got to our door as quickly as we did from the 11th floor of our building - and the station wasn't even open yet. This was a concept we were struggling with (either that or it was the early hour!). (Or perhaps it was hunger. We had expected a choice of dining options in the station. Nary a one! A long wait until the trolley came by on the train - well after 8. Mmmm.... )

Once the starter had us under orders, we found our way to the baggage office. 0540 came and went, and we and the other handful of innocents kept waiting until about 5.50 when a passing staff member casually mentioned that we should just check our luggage on the platform, so we could go to Gate 16. At gate 16 there was (a) a "pre-departure lounge" where passengers were invited to sit, and (b) a sign behind which they were invited to stand. We opted for (a). No one said anything, so it seemed alright, even though the standers began to outnumber us rapidly. A guy checked our tickets and didn't say anything about where we should be. We asked about luggage and he said they would give us a tag on the platform. Then a guy came by and gave us a tag. Still the standers kept multiplying. Lesser folk would have given in, but not us. We stayed sat. Then we were summoned to the platform - ahead of all the standers. Nah nah na nah nah. Nice to win (the old competitive urge) - but I'd prefer SOME kind of system.

But, ah, the train. Punctual, spacious - slow food (in the true sense) - free wifi, power - slow food (did I mention we hadn't had breakfast after getting up needlessly early?). Despite the shambles at the station and the lack of breakfast, train may be the only surviving civilised mode of travel!

We got to Montreal about 1215, and found our luggage and our hotel - Le Dauphin - (a 5 minute walk) pretty quickly. Technically we couldn't check in until 3, but they had a room ready. Good basic hotel style, close to the Old Town.

I'll let Anne tell you about the afternoon.

A.

After settling into this comfortable room we went for a wander around the old town to which we are very close here. Our Dauphin Hotel is in rue De Bleury near rue Sainte Antoine, and close to the Chinatown gate. It was colder than we had experienced in Toronto or London but that is to be expected as we are much further north. It also rained on and off so our rain gear and my umbrella came in handy. My umbrella is so compact it will fit in my bumbag- called a fanny pack or waist pack here.

We stopped for a late lunch at Cafe Mon Plaisir and had a delicious and reasonably sized omelette with tomato and fetta with bagel, and coffee. The cafe owners etc slip easily between English and French.

We walked past the magnificent Notre Dame Basilica named by the new arrivals in the 1700's after their beloved Paris cathedral. There was to be a sound and light show at 7 for $10 so we bought tickets- once again being spoken to in English before I had a chance to attempt any French. We continued walking through the historic centre of Montreal with its very European feel, quaint shop fronts, disused gas lamps and cobbled streets. I don't know how this works with high heels! We had a look in a beautiful chapel - the Notre Dame de Bon Secours.This is 300 years old and contains the tomb of Sainte Marguerite Bourgeoys who was canonised in 1982- Canada's first Canadian-born saint. Pope John Paul II was a busy man! It also has carvings of boats hanging from the ceiling which leads to it being known as the Sailors' Chapel.(There's a picture in the album).

Back to the hotel for some emails etc (M: a rest really!) and then we set off again for 5pm Mass in Notre Dame - en Francais of course. We went a fair way up the front after being welcomed and directed, and even then we were still a long way from the altar. The 900-pipe organ then started and a woman at the front with a really beautiful and quite deep voice started to sing, enticing us to join her which I would have attempted if I had had the words. It was so beautiful and she didn't miss a beat. On the way out we shook the priest's hand as did everyone.

M: The Church is quite remarkable. I am normally turned off by overly ornate Churches - and this one certainly qualifies - but for some reason this one fascinated rather than frustrated. The whole thing is the most remarkable confection of carving and colour. The sanctuary alone has major scultures of the four evangelists, Peter and Paul, Melchisidek, Moses, Abraham and Isaac and Christ seated in victory with Mary - and then there is the decoration! The pulpit - about a quarter of the way up the aisle is about two storeys high and elaborately carved (picture). Even the pews have their own individual carvings.

A:

We had a quick bite to eat at a Greek place which was very tasty and then had time for a Chocolat Chaud which we found in Starbucks. I was served by a girl who mistook me for English and then was embarrassed about that because her parents were from London (England). Back to Notre Dame and we lined up in the cold- and we found the inside of the basilica transformed by huge white sheets which had been stretched strategicaly around the church at a huge height to create screens, and a colourful pattern was being projected onto them - ultimately replaced by film. We had headsets so you could choose your language and the show took about 30 minutes and celebrated the founding of Montreal and the basilica. Apart from a bit if cheesy acting it was quite a good presentation and gave you a good understanding and feel.

M:

Amazing how a big mistake can give rise to a creative solution. The original design for the church had a massive window behind the altar, which blinded the congregation, who couldn't see the sanctuary. The massive decorations were a response to this. The dramatic moment in the show came when the screens were all whisked away and the church - the sanctuary in particular - was dramatically lit.

A:

We were able to walk around for a few minutes after before heading back to our room. As we walked through the streets, there were more lights in the sky- we think from the nearby hockey game.