Lake Titicaca
For today we take an overnight bag because we are going to Lake Titicaca to visit the floating islands and the tonight we are staying with a family . Our first stop this morning is at a market where we buy some things to take to our host family as offerings. We buy some salt, pasta and oats and some pencils and books in case they have children.
Lake Titicaca is the largest lake in South America and the highest navigable lake in the world.
Now we board a motor boat that would normally seat 25 but we are just 6 today so we are very lucky.
We cruise slowly through the reeds that are called Totora. There is an abundance of bird life. The name of the group of islands is Uros but each island community has its own name.
These floating islands now rely heavily on tourism which is evident as we approach. The visits by tourist is on a rotational basis so each village gets a share.
The Uro tribe predates the Incan civilization and the way they live today is much the same as it always has been. Today though they do have chemical toilets.
The Island we visit today is called Waliki and we are welcomed on to the island with the greeting Komisaraki which in Aymara means how are you with which we reply Waliki which is fine.
We are shown a demonstration of how the reed islands are made, how the people live and what they do. The women are embroiderers and the men are fishermen and hunters. The children go to school and kindergarten on a nearby island. The totora is not only used for building the islands but also the white base is food containing many essential nutrients, the reeds are dried to used for fuel for the ovens on which they cook. Vegetables are bought from the mainland daily and traded for handicrafts or fish. They raise pigs nearby but these are only eaten on special occasions.
Once the demonstration is over the women take each couple to her hut where we are welcomed inside. We meet the family and then they dress us up in traditional clothing and we have photos before the customary opportunity to purchase hand made items.
This island is home to 1 multi generational family with great grandma observing the activity from a corner between 2 huts. There is no high school so the young people must go to Puno and once they go to university many don’t come back. This lifestyle may unfortunately die out within one or two generations.
On now to cruise across the lake through the narrow gap and out into the main part which has Peru on one side and Bolivia on the other.
After 2 hours we stop at Isla Taquile where we will hike to the top of the island (4050m absl)to have lunch prepared by the community.
It’s a steep climb but interesting going past the homes of some of the 2200 people who live on the island. They grow crops and have sheep a few cows but no alpaca, Llama, donkey or horse. It’s a very dry island.
Lunch is Quinoa soup followed by grilled trout with chips and rice. It’s delicious and very filling. We are treated to a musical item by the locals which Jacque and I are bullied into joining with dance and the once again we are shown the local handicrafts with an expectation of a purchase.
We walk back down to our boat and we are off to Luquina Chico where we will meet our host family for our overnight stay. I have been quite anxious about this activity but we are committed.
On shore a young man depressed in traditional fashion comes down to the shore. He is our host, his name is Wilbur. We follow Wilbur up the hill to his home. The first thing we see is a ewe that gave birth to a tiny lamb less than an hour ago. There is a donkey and foal and a cow and calf.
We are shown our room which is private and has private facilities.
Wilbur has some English and so we can communicate with hand gestures and our very broken Spanish we have picked up.
After a short rest he asks us to help bring in the sheep, so further up the hill we go to find these dozen or so sheep and lambs. He hands me 2 ropes attached to 2 of the sheep and sends me on my way. Once they get the idea that they are going home to get a reprint the take off and I would say it was like dog sledding without the sled. Hilarious!!! The sheep drink from the tubs before being locked away for the night to protect them from foxes.
Next we meet Wilbur’s wife Stephanie and she is due to have their first child near the end of the month. She puts me to work dicing the vegetables for the dinner and Glenn and Wilbur go to bring in the pigs and feed them. Next he has to milk the cow but at the same time he does get to see the sunset over the lake.
Back in the kitchen dinner is cooking and mamma Sophia has come in for a chat with her daughter in-law. Mamma Sophia leaves and Wilbur comes in but there is no electricity so he brings in a solar device so cooking on the gas can be completed and we can eat.
Dinner was barley and vegetable soup followed by mixed vegetables and rice. Lots of potatoes! Very filling and very tasty.
During dinner we have intermittent conversation about family and the baby and life.With dinner finished we wash and dry the dishes, we give them the gifts we have for which they are grateful and off to bed. It’s 7pm...... we have light in our room but feel like we shouldn’t drain what power their might be so by 7.30 we are tucked into our snuggly single beds.
It’s the best sleep we have had since being in Peru!