After still struggling to get out of UK time, wakig up at 2.30am I manage to get myself up, dressed packed andin a taxi for 7am to take me to the National Airport for my flight to the Galapagos Islands. The airport is chaos, the instructions I have been given by Happy Gringo´s is all the wrong way round, so I look like a stupid happy gringo. You have to go to a special desk called Insalga I think where you pay $10 for an entry card into the islands, then your bag goes through a special security area, then you are able to check in, I was told to do it the other way round!

In the queue I meet an old guy called Dan from Israel and it turns out he is on the same boat as me, the Sulidae. Once through further security, the waiting room is also chaos, its not clear at all which plane is leaving from which ´gate´, its just glass doors onto the runway. There are different airlines all going to the same place at different times but most of the planes arelate so you are not sure what is going on. Once your flight is called you go through the glass doors along the runway trying to work out which pane you are supposed to be getti3ng on, but Dan and I work it out in the end.

Again our flight stops at Guayaquil (I think every flight stops here, no matter where you are going in Ecuador), we have to get off the plane and go through to wait for another plane that then took us to Santa Cristabel airport. Once we arrive, again everyone walks across the runway to a simple wooden airport where everyone queues up to pay the $100 tax and hand in the forms we had to fill in for entrance. Then we wait and watch our bags arrive on a baggage trolley which are then dumped on the floor in rows, then everyone just bundles in to find their bag then go to meet their guide for their boat.

Dan is already through with others on our boat, Kalie from Iowa, and Carol & Juan a couple from Barcelona. So far everyone sems lovey which is a massive relief! We drive to the harbour where we see our first seals just lying around the seating area without a care in the world, it is really surreal.

We wait abit longer for the others to arrive, then they decide to take us to the Sulidae to wait as the other´s flights are delayed. John from Dublin is already on the boat, he arrived the day before. Kalie and I are sharing a tiny cabin which is bunk beds and a little bathroom. The boat is beautiful, all wood, but really compact, kalie and I had to sleep with our backpacks as there was nowhere to put them! The others then arrive, Fleur from Paris, Tom & Frederick from Norway and Eamon, Claire and Cathal a family from Cork.

We all have lunch then head back to the shore to gt onto a bus that takes us to a lovely beach where we see more seal lions and iguanas, there was one area where you can swim with them, but I was too cold to get into the water at that point! Before heading back on board for dinner someone recommended gettig some seasickness pills as the boat had no keel as it got pretty horrific, so I did just in case!

Following day after a pretty good nights sleep, only slightly rocky, we had breakfast then headed back to Isla Santa Cristobel again, onto a bus that took us up to the highlands, la Galapaguera to see the tortoises, hopefully at feeding time. They were absolutely huge, over 100 years old, and it was feeding time, so great photo opps. Apparently a tortoise can lay up to 250 eggs, out of the 8 tortoises laying 2000 eggs in total only one tortoise on average survives. The female can mate with several males and store their sperm for up to two years so if she has a dry spell she can still lay eggs with or without a male in that time.

Back on the bus back to the harbour where I have a cheeky snooze, then the dingy back to the boat for lunch. Most meals comprise of ham, cheese, rice, beans, veg and fruit, all very yummy and all of us are pretty hungry each day as we do so much starting from 7am start, finishing at 6/7pm in the evening.

After lunch we sail to a beautiful beach called Puerto Grande that is deserted with white sands. The water is lovely, and the boat looks amazing in the distance, like something out of Pirates of the Caribbean. We all have a swim, but unfortunately get attacked by horse flies once we get out! Back to the Sulidae and we set sail Kicker rock where we have a dingy ride round first then snorkel in deep waters and with sharks. Everyone was very excited and a little nervous (I was terrified, fear of deep water with the added bonus of sharks- excellent), but it was a brilliant experience. We saw about 3 sharks which I managed to film, some sea lions that swam under us as well as some amazing fish.

We set sail at 11pm, and it was very rough, thank God for the seasickness pills, they saved my life on this trip. They whole boat was all over the place, it was like trying to sleep on a funfair ride, so without the sickness it was great fun, though difficult to slep. Everything was crashing about, you could hear things smashing and banging around the ship, kalie and I just got the giggles in the end it was so ridiculously rough.

Next mornig everyone is pretty knackered after the previous nights sailing, but we awake docked by Isla Santa Cruz where the Darwin Centre is. Dingy to shore and onto a bus whree we are dropped off round the corner from the centre. Our fabulous guide Raul, who was looking after us throughout the trip talked us through the different types of tortoise shell by size and shape, explaining the history of why some were extinct (humans, no surprise there). We then walked round to see the tortoises which was more like a zoo environment, not as good as in the wild like la Galapaguera, I got the feeling Raul wasnt too keen on this tourist set up to be honest, he is born and bred on the islands therefore is very passionate about his home and the nature within it. We also got to sea land iguanas; Conoloptus Subscristatus, which are yellow in colour, found on six islands and Conoloptus Pallidus, only found on Isla Santa Fe, difficult to see in the wild I thin.

We saw all different types of tortoises, then we went to see Lonesome George who is the only living species of tortoise left orginally from the Pinta Islands. They have tried everything to get him to mate but he is not interested, Raul thinks he would mate if he was able to live in the wild which may happen at the end of the year.

Atfterwards we were able to have a wander round the town centre for abit and have a coffee etc. After lunch on the boat we went back to the mainland where another guide called Serena, who used to be a biologist, took us on a 45 minute walk to a beautiful beach called Tortuga Beach, explaining different types of birds (yellow warblers, Darwin finches), lava lizards and plants on the way. Once we reach this amazing beach walked across it to another quieter area away fro the surfers to where there were about 50 sea Iguanas laying all over each other, it was an amazing sight. Further round there was a quiet bay where we went snorkelling, though not much to see. I spotted some fish, and a small snake which I thought everyone would be interested in seeing, turns out everyone wanted to get out of the water after that- oops!

Back to the boat for dinner and we set sail at midnight for the next island. Slighty rough sail but nowhere near as bad as the night before, we wake up by Isla Floreana (or Santa Maria as some call it). We get into the dingy again in our life jackets which takes us round Champion Rock. We see sea lions, Frigotte birds, Blue legged Boobies for the first time, Iguanas and lots of crabs. Back to the boat to get into our wetsuits to snorkel round the rock, but not before jumping off the boat a few times which was hilarious! Lots of amazing colourful fishes, a small shark, and lots of sea lions swimming and playing round us. Back to the boat for lunch and abit of sunbathing before snorkelling again off La Loberia where we saw turtles and more sea lions. Quick shower then we head outon the dingy to Tevas OK, which is another beautiful beach that has a postbox where people leave postcards with no stamps for others to take to the adressees. Its following the message in a bottle way of postal service that the pirates used to use. We watched the beautiful sunset and back to the boat.

After dinner we all sat on deck, it was a stunning clear night with the most stars I ever seen, absolutely breathtaking. Everything around us was pitch black apart from one light on deck that shone over the water. While sitting on deck we noticed a small area of fish close to the surface of the water and some sealions under the boat, then a couple of sharks, which we shouted to Fleur to see as she had missed them when we were snorkelling. The sharks were circling the light over th water and would sometimes com in close to the boat up to the surface, it was brilliant. Then in the distance we could see pale shapes moving towards us, silently almost alien like, turns out it was about 50 golden rays coming towards us, I have never seen anything like it, then they quietly swan the other way and disappeared into the darkness. We continued to watch the sea lions and sharks that had increased to 3 or 4, we couldnt tell if they were both working together to get the fish or if the sea lions were trying to scare them off. While focusing on this the shapes appeard again except this time there were over 100 golden rays coming towards us, it was mind blowing, I cant described what it was like to see. It allwent quiet then and I went to bed, Carol, Juan and Kalie stayed up and I heard then call out that a turtle had come too but I was too tired to get out of bed by then.

We set sail at midnight, so a rocky nights sleep and woke up by Isla Santa Isabella, where the dingy took us ashore to a colourful painted bus that took us up to the highlands bus that took us up to the highlands where horses were waiting for us.

My horse was called Rosea probably because she had pink nose and eyes! The saddles were like metal shoes that went over my boots and the reigns were just rope, very basic. The saddle had a metal andel you could hola on to while steering the horse with your other hand, very cowboys like, and very bumpy (wished I wore a sports bra- ouch!).

We rode uphill as close to the crater of Volco Chico as posible and walk the rest of the way to its edge. Now we visited two volcanos on this day, so I may have the name wrong, but this one we were looking at first is the second biggest crater in the World and it last erupted in 2005 so you culd see the difference in the crater as to where the new lava had gone.

Afterwards we walked for about an tour along another volcano that was like walkingon another planet. There was hardly anything there other than lava except some cactus and few plants. It was a boiling hot day and a tough walk, which made me question my fitness levels for the Inca trail later! We saw amazing views of the devastation of the lava then headed back to have some lunch. Then back on the horses which was hilarious. The owner would make this noise that made the horses go crazy and run really fast, so you were holding on for dear life while laughing your head off. Claire said it was more like hysteria as none of us know what we doing except probably Cathal who was only 11 years old! John´s horse was very unhappy and went up its back legs where he proceded to just slide off while wearing his cowboy hat, it was so funny!

Back on the colourful bus that took us to a beautiful beach where got ito my bikini immediately and crashed out on the sand. I had the biggest bruises ever on my inner thighs, not a good look! After some sunbathing and a swim, some of us had a beer before meeting up with Raul again.

That night we stayed in a hotel and went to a local ´disco´ with the crew which was good fun. At first we were the only people in there but later it filled up full. Everyone dances in a salsa like way and in couples, never alone, so that was interesting!Lovely to sleep in a bed but the floor was still rocking for most of us so it didn´t make much difference. I woke up pretty hungover after only 4 large Pilseners, still a light-weight and only just made it back on the dingy to the boat without throwing up, managing to get a couple of photos of some penguins on the way. The others did another dry landing and some snorkeling but I unfortunately layed in the sun on deck in the recover position- no change there then!After lunch we set sail to go round Turtle Island where we saw hundreds of Sea Iguanas crawling up the rock. We also saw many birds including male and female friggots birds.After dinner we then set sail for Santa Cruz, again with all the lights off so the captain could keep aneye out for the fishing boats as sometimes they have no lights at all and thats the only way to avoid hitting them. So we all layed on deck wrapped up in blankets sleeping under the stars until we were woken up by the crew as the heavens had opened and it was pouring with rain even though none of us noticed!An earlier start than usual, 6am wake up call to get straight into the dingy to some small islands which is a place called Venecia. The sea was almost flat and everything was so still, it was very beauiful. We saw pelicans diving in for fish, blue legged boobies, yellow warblers, starfish, stingray, mantaray, turtle, crabs and many other kinds of fish. Back to the boat for breakfast then we set sail for Daphne Rock, where we saw more sea lions, boobies, pelicans etc then we went snorkelling round the rock. Again lots of colourful fish, sharks, and some of the others saw a moray eel but I did not go anywhere near to have a look, not on your nelly!Raul informed us that a boat had sunk the previous evening and all the passengers survived but lost all their belongings as it can be difficult with the rocks, but he also mentioned that they do this for insurance reasons so we all felt very lucky to be on the Sulidae!After lunch we went to shore of Santa Cruz to another Tortoise area in the Highlands where they are free to roam on the farmers land to ensure they are protected and multiply, we saw a male & a female but that was it. Serena was out giude again today and after not finding anymore tortoises she talked us through some of the birds and plants including tasting their local Guava that was delicious. Apparently they are having difficulty in controlling this plant as the birds and tortoises love eating it so much they are spreading the seeds far and wide. The only way to kill the tree is cutting from the root.Then Serena took us to a lava tube at El Chato which was amazing, almost like caving at one point when it got so low. Then we went to visit two other craters that sit either side of the main road called Los Gemelos (gemini or twins as they are identical) which were created by two lava bubbles popping. By this time it was pouring with rain and the guide wasn{t feeling very well so we all agreed to call it day. Plus Fleur and John were leaving us so back to the harbour where we tooks lots of group photos and said our goodbyes.Back on board for dinner, then we set sail back to Santa Cristabel about 7.30pm/ 8pm for a long rough sail. I packed my backpack ready for the morning then was in bed by 8.30pm listening to my ipod as you could hardly walk it was so rocky.Next morning, early breakfast then said our goodbyes to the crew. We checked in our bags at the airport then our last destination was the Centre of Interpretation, which basically explains the history of the Galapagos Islands, how it was discovered and the dangers they face. Raul our guide explained that it is illegal for boats to take anymore then 16 passengers round the Galapagos Islands, (the Sulidae only takes 12), but unfortunately the large luxury boats are paying officals back handers to be able to sail around them, so he request all of us inform our friends and family should they ever visit never go on a boat that takes more than 16.After a short time in town it was back to the airport then our flying back to Quito (via a stop at Guayquil again, surprise surprise!). We all said our goodbyes at Quito airport and I got a taxi back to the Alston Inn for the next part of my adventure!It was quite nice to be back in a room with a bed after 8 days at sea. It was also good to have control of what food I wanted to eat as I was sure I had come back alittle more rounded after all that rice, corn and beans! Phew!I hit the internet cafe to let everyone know I was aliove then tried to download phtotos that just take forever. I filmed some of the animals at Galapagos but unfortunately I couldn´t get it put on a DVD nor could I download it, very frustrating! Same again with the million photos I took, so this was where I started to fall way way behind on my blog as I desperately try to clear my memory cards! Some late dinner, a quick read of my trip notes as I was meeting my new group the following day- then to bed.....zzzzzzz.