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Now we really suffer for not having our guidebook. The streets are a terrible maze and the odd no-entry policy w/ cameras filming your car plates makes it difficult to get in the Cathedral vacinity. Granada really protects its heritage and tries to minimize the congestion in its Antiquity center. We burn more time and miss the Cathedral and museums before close, but fortunately there is a mass on and we enter as parishoners. Lyn and I believe the Cathedral in Granada rivals anything we saw in Rome (sorry..no picture taken out of respect).
So how do we salvage Granada for the girls? Pampering and Indulgence. The Old Town is the quaintest place we've walked through so far and it comes alive with modern and antiquity stores after 6 pm. There are gypsies and musicians about the streets hustling. We come into the square off the Cathedral to find a choice of 6-7 bistros with traditional decor and outdoor pavillions. We settle on Bodega and have a great spanish meal of Granada alluvias ( long beans w/ chorizo), seafood paella, salads, and pasta dishes with some Rioja. Then the magic starts......
We find the best gelato ever (likely better than anything we had in Rome). Its a place called Tiggani's and the girls try Chocolate-HotPeppar, Coconut, Tiramisu, etc. We're about to go back for seconds and we finally see what Jenny's been talking about since arriving in Spain....our first Churreria.
Churros in USA are dense extruded donut sticks covered in granular sugar sold at Cubs games and theme parks. Nothing like the "nirvana" that Granada churrerias serve. These shoppes remind us of old time Fountain Ice Cream parlors with a bistro style. The waiters are bright and attentive serving up plates of hot, crispy-light ropes of fried batter and dark rich hot dipping choclate. Each order is a "rope" made by spinning a stream of batter around in hot oil with huge chopsticks. Its a show to watch them operate and the output is incredible. Everyone late night in the square is dipping these airy dough segments into mugs of chocolate. The serving size is what amazes us. The waiter makes ours in front of us and cuts the rope w/ scissors into 10 foot-long pieces that go into a paper sack. There's very little oil coming through the paper and the fried tubes are weightless. We figure we'll finish them off easily. We take a large cup to-go of the chocolate to share, a double espresso, and a hot tea....all for 5 euro.
Ashleigh isn't just skipping down the street.....she's leaping. Probably a sugar high, and I consider having her drive the 2 hours back to Marbella at 10 pm.. We leave Granada with a universal impression that we'd like to come back.
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