Clouds loom as we leave the van and cross the main bridge over the Guadalquivir river. Due to the bend in the river we cross it again over the 6thC Roman bridge leading to the Mezquita.

The sun has come out and there is the lovely mix of colours of blue sky, warm beige stonework and bright oranges in the trees.

We enter the courtyard lined with palms and orange trees and get our tickets for entry to the cathedral. [€8/€4].

One of the world's main religious sites. The original martyrs' basilica was demolished by Muslims in 785 and rebuilt as a mosque. Remains of the basilica are displayed in glass gases inside. Over the centuries it was enlarged to its present grandeur then consecrated as a cathedral in 1234

The vast space is supported by 850 columns of various types of stone. Overhead are over 500 arches in red and white stonework. Chapels house grand screens, marble and jasper alters and silver and gold artefacts.

The central, original Mihrab is the most magnificent with carved stone and woodwork, and beautifully detailed precious metalwork beneath the huge lantern roof. The whole place is mind-blowing, words try to describe it, pictures give an impression, but to really appreciate it it has to be seen.

We leave via the courtyard and find a cafe for coffee and a pizza between the four of us. 'Entertainment' is provided by an old chap with a guitar, wailing out folk songs tha sound like he's in pain. We interpret them as 'Ow! I've stubbed my toe', 'My ankle hurts this morning' and 'It burns when I go wee-wee'.

Wandering around the colourful narrow streets locals stand at high ledges outside tapas bars with food and drink. Shops are full of touristy things like flamenco aprons and Mezquita fridge magnets.

We turn into Plaza del Florio, a small courtyard with a fountain and loads of flower boxes and hanging baskets of geranium, pansies and ponsettia.

More narrow streets take us through the Jewish quarter, past the grotesque Inquisition museum and down to the Alcazar fortress. We look to go in but there are too many steps.

Back on the riverside we see the remains of the Roman waterwheel then find a cafe for a drink before heading back to the vans.

The Nicks look into Mary*Lou's battery charging problem and find two corroded fuses which are soon replaced and all seem to be working again.

In the evening we return to town in darkness for a meal in Los Patios restaurant. It's a pleasant, inexpensive meal with friendly staff. Afterwards we have a look around outside the Mezquita all lit up with its brass doors shining brightly. Like the other places we've visited recently, seeing them after dark is an added treat.

We are back in the vans soon after 22:00, have a nightcap then turn in after a fabulous day.