The sun is bright and warm as we pack up, service the vans and leave at 11:10. Traffic is light as we drive through the outskirts of Vienna into the open countryside. At one large roundabout we do a full circle to get a better view of a huge field of purple poppies. Gradually the flat, open farmland with fields of cereal crops or flowers becomes less attractive, spoiled by forests of wind turbines and pylons. We reach the Hungary border and stop behind...