We flew out of the Beijing smog into Xian fog. Not nearly so thick, and not making us wheeze. Our guide here is Tony, and our hotel is smack bang in the centre of the old walled city, with fantastic service and we've been upgraded to a suite, which is very posh. We have a sofa, a chaise, an office chair and desk, an easy chair...have to keep moving round!

We found the street market, complete with cauldrons set in tables so diners can cook their own food. We saw pigs' feet ready for cooking, and chicken feet, squid on sticks, unrecognisable things on sticks, piles of fruit and nuts. People were dancing in the fountain square, and on the pavement outside the school, the people here seem more friendly than in Beijing and the market stall holders were not at all pushy. We ate Moroccan food and it's the first time I've had ice cream garnished with tomato.