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It has been a journey of experience and emotion. Of hot and cold both physically and emotionally. A journey to the soul of South Africa.
The day we left Swasiland there was a protest closing the three major border crossings. The South African Union organizers are trying to bring workers in Swasiland under their umbrella. They are angry that the King is spending millions of Rand on his 40th birthday celebration (which happens to coincide with the country's 40th birthday). With terrible poverty the money could be better spent. However, from what we have heard, the people seem generally content with the way things are. What business is it of SouthAfrican Union Organizations anyway?
Within South Africa there is a strong movement to change. Some feeling they were better off under Apartheid... not the segregation part... but the health and education systems which are now in a terrible state. Math and science teachers are scarce. You are not allowed to fail a child and no special help is there for the slow learner. The average age of a doctor here is 58. Many blacks and whhites are worried about the growing strength of the unions and youth movements... there is talk of getting rid of the whites and on it goes.
We've met people unvolved in what is referred to as "The Struggle". They have been beaten up and shot at. We have met whites who have worked hard to bring all sides together and have seen their proposals shot down by stubborness on both sides. We have met displaced Zimbabweans (sp?) now thinking of, again, moving on... but to where?
In spite of all the struggles they all love their country.
"Without Pressure there can be no Diamonds"
These people are under tremendous pressure. Reading the newspaper I feel their despair. Every time headway is made corruption erodes it. With poor educatiuon and a hustory of following heros, the population puts their faith in the propoganda of the strong. Weather it be the leaders of the Zionist Christian Church (millions strong), the ANC (African National Congress), the Unions or the strong Youth Movement of the ANC. ... each has it's own agenda and each has the power to destroy.
I do not get a sense of healing here. The wounds are too deep as is the distrust. This pressure has uet to produce strong diamonds among the people.
A strange example of the mountains these people must climb comes from the wine country. For years the (white) winery owners paid their workers in part with wine. On Friday night the workers would go home with a large jug of wine and party... dragging themselves to work on Monday morning. Thios led to a problem with alcoholism (much to the surprise of the owners) and a bigger problem of fetal alcohol syndrom. Now there are generations of children unable to function well in society continuing dependence on alcohol.
So the community leaders woke up and said... "this isn't a good thing! Lets stop the practice of paying wages in wine" The owners came back at them saying ... "but that's what the workers want!"
Well of course it is because they are well and tryuly entrenched in alcoholism.
When the 'wine payment' is cut off and noi help is given it breeds anger, crime and discontent.
What to do?
Build higher walls with more razor wire and be afraid?!
Some progress is being made but as in the process of diamond creation... it is slow.
For now I will experience the extremes of this diverse country from the comfort of my tourist coach and 4 star (protected) hotel room.
Thisourney, as do they all, will forever change my life.
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