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Back in the Punakha Valley we have successfully completed the jaw clenching ride from the beautiful Tang Valley. Despite the heavy rain two nights ago, the roads are in pretty good shape. I lost count of the number of work camps alongside the road. Migrant workers from India (paid Nu 900 or $18 per month) slave away smashing rocks to bits with sledge hammers, boiling bitumen in big metal barrels over huge open fires (we were praying the wind wouldn't blow sparks in to the dry forest), using shovels to mix the gravel with the hot raw oil before patting it in to place. There was no sign of a roller on the highway so I suppose they were using the cars and trucks to tramp the mixture in to place. That might explain why the roads are so lumpy. Some of the workers are young families with children working alongside Mom and Dad. We are told the children go to school but some of these 'workers' seemed school aged to me. Perhaps they can't afford a uniform? Apparently there are provisions for poor children to have proper attire... we will never know the full story.On this return 8 hour trip we were pleased to have blue sky. This time we could see the ridges of the mountains and even, in the distance, the glaciers of the Himalayan peaks. It is amazing to climb over 11,000 feet and be in a dry jungle like forest. Rhododendron ' trees' as well as pine and cedar share the forest. Families of monkeys scatter back in to the foliage as we pass. This is so very different than I imagined. Bhutan is approximately at the same latitude as Florida.... and it is hot! It's becoming a struggle to wear long sleeves and pants for temple visits. We took a break to visit another 17th century Fort. They are all similar however this one has seen more action than most. There were many tribal wars in the Trongsa area as well as wars with Tibet. One of the alters here has quite a few shields and weapons which is unusual.The next day we headed out early (good thing because it was so hot) to hike across the river and up to a temple for a great view of the valley. From there we wandered through farmers fields and back down to the river. The only way to get across the river is by suspension bridge.... they were fairly wide and quite safe which is a good thing when you look up and see a herd of cows coming right at you! We met a delightful old woman tending one of the prayer wheels. She just beamed when we spun the huge wheel. When we left she had a chocolate bar and some cold medication which she needed badly.... she was pretty happy!Had to throw another suspension bridge (the largest in Bhutan) in to the picture before lunch. Afterwards we headed to a Monastery where we interacted with the monks who were busily preparing for a visit from the chief Abbot. One of the monks spoke with an American accent... the result of two teachers who recently returned to the states. One of them, a 19 year old, has been recognized as the nineth reincarnation of the head of the monastery. So, at that young age, he is the boss!At the nunnery we visited the interaction was not so lively. Joan and I did manage a short conversation with two young girls studying in the temple. So hard to believe these girls and boys will spend their lives studying their faith. We learned that when little children enter the monastery or nunnery they only learn about their faith and a little english. The older children have at least had the benefit of a normal education before they enter.
So now to some overdue trivia.... respect the unexpected.
- Lakes and Mountains are considered sacred. You can't swim in a lake because of this but no problem swimming in a river.
- It wasn't until after the 3rd King that the land was distributed among everyone. Large land owners were "happy to share" because that is what the Buddhist faith teaches.
- The upside down skull depicted in temples is the God of Serenity... seems odd?
- There are seven bowls of water in front of the alter.... they symbolize: bathing, flowers, food, light, drinking, perfume and incense.
- Pig symbol = Greed- Snake symbol = Hatred- Rooster symbol = Desire
-Women = Wisdom, Men = Knowledge... when you see statues of them copulating it really is just wisdom and knowledge coming together..... Hmmm
- Ara is the name of their rice wine.... they like to drink it with a fried egg in the cup.... ?
- Night Hunting... (still practiced in rural areas)... instead of a wedding a man will try to sneak in to a woman's bedroom. If she lets him they are considered married. Apparently it is a good idea to keep hot water or dried chilies on hand to ward off advances in the night
- As you enter each sanctuary there are three steps representing past, present and future. There are also often three Buddhas (past, present and future)
- When you have a baby you go to two or three monks to get a name. You choose or combine all the names if you want.
- Bad monks are often thought to come back as Pigeons.... and we know how everyone loves them!
- This last bit is sad but true.... all people are cremated and their ashes set to the wind... unless, however, you are a baby (two or younger). Babies are not considered to have a soul or spirit so they are cut in pieces and fed to the birds, buried or thrown in the river. This ritual is performed by monks and observed by the families.
I've known about that last one for a few days but have had trouble writing it down. So many of the old traditions are passing... I hope this one changes soon.
Tomorrow we go over the dusty road and back to Paro.... only three more nights in Bhutan. Still so much to absorb and understand. I don't think I will ever fully understand it all.
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