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So we have now made it into our 12th country (by our reckoning) of Vietnam. However, the journey here was definitely the worst of our trip so far and far eclipses the 33 hour trip from Cusco to Lima in November.
We booked the trip from Vientiane to Hanoi in Vietnam through our hotel in Vientiane, New Laos Paris hotel, as we thought they would at least be trustworthy. How wrong we were. We checked out of our room at 12pm and went and grabbed some lunch in a nearby cafe. Vientiane was really quiet apart from the sporadic parties which were going on for the Laos New Year celebrations. After our lunch we headed back to the hotel and wasted the rest of the time until our pick up at 5pm. We were picked up on time and got on the bus with a couple of French guys and an Indonesian bloke who were all travelling to Hanoi. When we got to the bus station, we all waited around to get on the bus which clearly stated it was going to Hanoi. This is where our awful journey began. We were separated from our French and Indonesian companions as they were directed onto the Hanoi bus and we were told to wait. After about 40 minutes, we were pulled over to another bus which we were told we would be getting on. This was slightly disturbing as the bus said it was only going to Vinh which is about 6 hours south of Hanoi. Our driver who had brought us to the bus station then just left us with the owner of this bus who couldn't speak a word of English. A kind guy from Vietnam who could speak some English then told us that the bus we were meant to be on had been over booked so we had to get on this bus then catch another bus to Hanoi. This disturbed us as we had paid extra for the Hanoi bus and everyone waiting for the bus to Vinh was staring at us as if we were aliens. There was nothing we could do so we had to just wait around and watch the Hanoi bus leave whilst everyone continued to stare at us!!
After another hour of waiting we were ushered onto the bus first and actually had an okay sleeper seat which is basically a flat seat which acts like a bed. Then they let everyone else on and there must have been at least another 100 people who got onto the bus and were crammed into every book and cranny. There wasn't one ounce of floor space left by the time they had rammed everyone onto the bus. We couldn't believe that people were going to spend 16 hours on the bus in such a small space. We eventually left the bus station at about 7pm and after a stop at 9pm for some food, we then stopped about half an hour from the border at about 1am. We had read that this happens as the border is shut overnight until 7am in the morning. We aren't sure why the buses don't just leave later and arrive at the border for 7am but somebody cleverer than us must have reason. We decided to try and get some sleep but after about an hour, the bus was so hot due to the amount of people on board. We had to get off the bus due to the heat and sat next to the bus for a couple of hours. This is when we both started to feel a bit ill and was probably the low point of the journey. We aren't sure if it was something to do with the heat on the bus or what but we were both feeling less than 100%.
We left for the border at around half 5 and were there by about 6. It's here where we met our French and Indonesian companions again on the bus that we were supposed to be on. This didnt make us feel any better. We got through the Laos border fairly quickly after having to pay 10,000 kip (about 80p) each for an exit stamp. We then walked across to the Vietnam border where we again had to pay 20,000 dong (about 60p) each for an entry stamp. We think these charges are just a way of the border guards to make a bit extra on top of their salary but you've got to just pay it. After scanning our bags and putting them back on the bus, we jumped back on and were feeling a bit better to be in Vietnam and with only about 10 hours left of the nightmare journey. I should note that the staring still hadn't stopped and we kept looking at each other to check that we didnt have food all over our face or were covered in blood or something. We both managed to grab a bit of sleep, Beth slightly more than me as usual, and we made it to Vinh at around 12pm. However, we were told to stay on the bus as it continued for another hour along the Vietnamese coast. As we stopped for some lunch, and we were just about to go for a well needed toilet stop, we were grabbed and told to jump on another bus for Hanoi. Hearing the words 'Hanoi' lifted our spirits and we quickly got onto the bus and were pleased with how comfortable it was. Then, the guy came around to collect the ticket money and we thought he would just go straight past us. However, he wanted us to pay for the bus. He spoke no English, but we showed home our ticket to Hanoi and said that we had already paid and we would not pay again. Eventually, he went back to the front of the bus only to return a couple of minutes later again asking for money. We again said the same and this time he didnt come back to ask for money. We aren't sure if he had been paid by the company in Vientiane or what but we think he would have kicked us off if he hadn't. This makes us think that he was trying to rip us off as well. Not good!!!
We were sat at the back of this bus which was 5 sleeper seats. It was empty when we got on but gradually filled up until there was me, Beth and three other guys lying at the back. We made it to Hanoi just before 8pm so that's 27 hours on the road. Definitely or worst and most uncomfortable trip so far. Not knowing what was happening and where we were going was horrible and constantly being stared at and, in Beth's case, being touched was intimidating and really uncomfortable.
Anyways, we made it to Hanoi and after a quick change of rooms in our hotel, we made our way out into the manic night of Hanoi. Trying to cross the road is ridiculous and you just have to go for it whilst the scooters drive around you. It's definitely not for the faint hearted. Today, we didnt get up until after 12 after having about 2 hours sleep out of the previous 30. We then walked around Hoan Kiem lake where we were stopped by a local student who wanted to practice his English. After talking to him for twenty minutes, we then visited Hoa Lo prison. This is the prison where captured American pilots were kept during the Vietnam War. It was also a French prison when Vietnam was a French colony. It's definitely worth a visit and was quite air wring to see the guillotine which they used to use to kill inmates. We have also booked a cruise around Halong Bay on Friday and Saturday and are going to the water puppet theatre tonight which, for some reason, Beth is really excited about!
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