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We began our travels at 8.30 am at the ADO bus station. An unusual mix of people, our favourite of whom was an old Aussie man whose only luggage was 3 beers and a banana. The bus itself was very comfy with air con and spacious seats they also played movies in English and the 4 hours flew by.
We arrived at Chetumal and took a taxi for 70 pesos ($5 US) to the pier for our connecting boat. We met a lot of people there including a lovely Aussie couple and other nationalities. Waiting at the port was tedious and quite hot but you could buy water and things in a little shop either in pesos or Belize dollars. There was a man outside who exchanged our remaining money for us (having taken away 306 pesos ($23 US) for Mexico exit tax) he was helpful at working out how much new currency we were owed.
Immigration control was a somewhat strange ordeal and had a "taken" vibe in the little office with roman blinds, military uniforms and pictures of Jesus. But it was fine, we payed our exit tax and boarded the boat (we also asked for a receipt just in case).
The boat journey was ok a little humid but bearable, we arrived in San Pedro, a bigger island beside Caye Caulker and had our passports stamped for entering Belize, paying $1.25 US as a "service charge". There was a vey relaxed vibe to customs, they asked if we had alcohol or cigarettes but didn't seem bothered by your answer (or presence at all really!) Not a long wait until the next boat to Caye Caulker. This was a water taxi so was much more enjoyable and allowed us to take in the beautiful sea views.
Caye caulker can only be described as a hidden paradise. People greeted us to the "go slow island" and invited us to dine at their restaurants later, or some just wished us to enjoy the island. Sandy roads, no cars, no rushing, no stress, the most smiley people I have ever seen cycling happily round the streets. Everywhere you looked was like a picture perfect postcard, the sunsets, the beaches, the palm trees, the locals quietly enjoying their peaceful lives. We found our hotel easily enough, there are only 3 roads on the island, front, middle and back road so everything is very easily located. The taxi drivers (in golf carts) helped us find the way without the usual expectation of payment. We stayed at the Island Magic Hotel, well worth extra money we paid 60 Belize dollars each per night which is $30 US. We could have stayed in a hostel for half that price but it was the best hotel on that part of the island that we saw, private pool, jacuzzi, amazing shower, room service, fridge, kitchenette and magnificent sea view.
The night life was a little quiet but we quickly found out the "routine" of the island as shared with me by a local called Dice. During the day people go to the reggae bar at the split (an area at the end of the island between the town and the national reserve, where you can snorkel, sunbath on the pier, have a drink at the bar and just chill out.) At night everyone goes to I&I reggae bar where they play reggae tunes and have swings for bar stools and sell cheap drinks ($2 US for a vodka sprite). There's a stripper pole and dance floor which is a good laugh. Finally when reggae bar closes at half 1 everyone goes to voodoo lounge to end the night - it looks like the type of clubs you'd go to when you were a teenager, seemed to be more locals there though. One thing I'm trying to get used to is the smoking in bars!
The food was very cheap, we particularly enjoyed "maggies kitchen" for breakfast and "enjoy bar" for dinner and baileys coladas! We also tried "wish willies" which was basically some guys back garden with bed sheets on the table but as usual was delicious. We also availed of a cheap laundrette $5 US for 10kilos of clothes so we could smell nice before we left.
The island was so amazing we stayed another night, 4 in total, and spent the last night chilling out at the outdoor cinema ($6 US ticket $3 US popcorn $2.50 beer) before our next journey to Guatemala which we booked at a tourist office on the island for $37 US bus and boat. We booked them separate but found it cheaper somewhere else just after buying so look around for combos!
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Naomi This was really informative thanks!